How to Make a PVC Hand Pump to Move Water, Compress Air, & Create Vacuum « Hacks, Mods & Circuitry :: Gadget Hacks
When you’re using vacuum power, moving water, or compressing air, it’s more than likely being done with some sort of pump. I’ll be needing a pump for some of my future projects, so in this tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to make your own customizable PVC hand pump that will let you do all three.
Power tools, like a table saw, pose risks of serious injury. Adequate training and experience are required before operating. The results and claims of this pump are based solely on my personal experiences with the one demonstrated in the video. Individual results may vary. The pump is a simple design and not made, or claimed, to be used in any heavy duty operations, or relatively high pressures. Use of this content is at your own risk.
A prerequisite to making the pump will be 2 homemade check valves. You can learn how to make these cheap PVC check valves in the following video, or in my previous guide here on WonderHowTo.
I thought it might be good to build a simple pump, mainly for learning purposes and future projects, and wanted to do it with low-cost materials.
For the pump piston and chamber, I was inspired by a picture I saw in a Google image search by someone who used the 1¼» and 1″ sizes of tubes, and he mentioned he cut the grooves for the O-rings on a table saw. That was a new idea to me and gave me the inspiration to put this together.
The materials I used are outlined in detail in the picture.
How to Build a PVC Hand Pump
You can see here that the 1″ pipe fits closely inside of the 1-1/4″ PVC pipe. There is just a little gap, but we actually need this to be air-tight to make a proper piston. The best way that I know of to make an air-tight seal is by using some rubber O-rings.
To cut grooves for the rings, I used a table saw, and adjusted the blade by holding the pipe flat on the table top, and lowering the blade until I could see that it would only cut about halfway through the plastic. The goal is to make a nice groove for the O-ring, but not to compromise the structural integrity of the PVC pipe too much.
I cut 2 grooves for redundancy. One at 1″, and another at 2″ marks.
I used some wooden braces to keep the pipe steady, and made the cuts by using one hand to hold the pipe on the blade, and the other hand to rotate the pipe slowly. Of course safety and caution are top priorities when working around power tools and open cutting blades.
Images via wonderhowto.com
The O-rings fit perfectly into place.
Image via wonderhowto.com
This end of the pipe also needs to be capped off to seal it air tight.
Image via wonderhowto.com
You can’t really tell in the picture, but I’ve glued on an end plug that is solid. In the diagram I said it was a 1″ plug, but in reality it was a ¾» plug that I sanded down to fit inside the end of the 1″ pipe.
Now this end of the tube is completely sealed. To finish the piston, we need to do a little work on the exterior tube.
I got a 1¼» slip cap and used a 1-3/8″ forstner bit to drill a hole in the center.
An O-ring was added into the inside of the cap around the hole, and put to the side for a minute.
To insert the piston, the O-rings need some lubrication, or the friction on the inside walls of the pipe will damage them. I used Vaseline, but some people have suggested Vaseline will eat the O-rings over time, and that some type of silicon grease would be better.
To the bottom of the 1¼» pipe I cemented on the coupling, ¾» reducer bushing, short riser, and threaded tee.
With the 2 O-rings lubricated, the piston should push air-tight into the larger pipe.
The modified slip cap can be cemented on top now, and when the piston is bottomed out, there should just be a couple of inches of pipe poking out the top.
I chose to paint the fittings black, and the pipe blue, just for contrast.
The handle is made from 2 pieces of 4½» x 1″ PVC pipe cut from the scraps off of the piston.
Everything is cemented together as shown in the picture, and when the handle is complete, it cements onto those couple of inches of piston pipe sticking out of the hydraulic piston chamber.
This completes the piston, and adding 2 check valves to the threaded Tee at the bottom will complete the pump!
Note: Make sure your check valves are pointing the right way. 🙂
Since the check valves are threaded, they can be moved around, changed out, or positioned in many creative ways. Using additional PVC pipe and fittings opens up many different options. The imagination is the limitation.
Using Your New Hand Pump
With the vertical pump approach, I could pump around 3 gallons per minute.
This pump seemed to move just over 2 cups of water per cycle.
You could try making this into a pump to move water vertically, or leverage it with your feet for more of a bilge pump type approach.
With the horizontal approach, I could move over 5 gallons per minute because I could put my weight into it and move it faster.
The pump was made for pumping water, but it proves extremely effective for compressing air, as well as creating a vacuum.
The pump has an intake side, and an outflow side. If you hook up to the intake, you create a vacuum.
I blew up a balloon and attached it to the intake side, and on every stroke it got smaller and smaller until it was actually sucked inside the tube.
I tried blocking the valves from both directions, and when I pulled back on the piston I was met with a strong vacuum in the chamber, which pulled the piston back inside with considerable force when I let go.
Because the piston isn’t physically attached to anything, the handle can rotate a full 360 degrees.
If you need to clean the piston, or add some more lubrication, you can pull the whole handle out like an oversized plunger. It goes back in the same way it came out.
I’m planning to use this piston design in future projects that require pneumatic and hydraulic pistons.
In my testing, the valves work great with air and water. I didn’t have any gauges to test the strength of the vacuum so can’t say how strong the vacuum would be, but it certainly does create one.
While there are some special tools used to create this pump (table saw and forester bit), I believe with a little creativity the pump could be made just as effectively without them, making this a simple and duplicatable design.
If you haven’t seen the video yet, check it out here, and if you liked this project, perhaps you’ll like some of my others. Check them out here on WonderHowTo or at thekingofrandom.com.
Make a Vacuum Pump « Wonder How To
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How Big of a Vacuum Pump Do I Need?
Back to Pumps
How Large Of A Vacuum Pump Do I Need?
March 30th, 2015 | Posted by Dane CME
Vacuum refers to a space where the density of the gas is less than the density of the air in the environment around it. This density is expressed as gas pressure. At sea level the air pressure is defined as 14.7 psia. If you have a container that is at a lower pressure, it is said to be a vacuum. To move gas from the container and expel it into the general atmosphere, one must compress the air from the low pressure state to the higher atmospheric pressure. The machine that does this is a vacuum pump. (For extremely deep vacuums the mechanism is not compression but individual molecule capture, see the description of the Entrapment Pumps below.) The vacuum pump can also discharge above atmospheric pressure, in which case it is called a compressor.
When looking for vacuum pumps, there are many options to consider depending on your needs. Before settling on the given size, it is first important to understand the different types of pumps available for selection and what they can be used to achieve.
Vacuum pump types
There are three main distinctions available in the spectrum of vacuum pumps and each suits specific applications. Pumps are broadly categorized according to their techniques of removing gas particles and include:
• Positive displacement – these pumps function by pulling gas from a confined space into the pump chamber, sealing the chamber, compressing the air, and then opening the chamber to the vessel (or open atmosphere) that receives it; and then repeating.
• Momentum transfer – these pumps use high-speed rotating blades or compress the gas out of the chamber and create a vacuum. They are commonly referred to as “blowers”.
• Entrapment pumps – these systems basically capture air molecules in adsorbed or solid state and include getters, ion pumps and cryopumps.
Different types of pumps
1. Diaphragm pumps – These are positive displacement pumps that are quite small. Typical vacuum levels achieved can be as low as 5 psia, but not much lower.
2. Piston pumps – These are positive displacement pumps that can achieve 0.5 psia. They are usually bigger than the diaphragm pumps but do not have the capacity that can be achieved by the Liquid Ring Pumps.
3. Liquid ring vacuum pump – this is the most commonly used positive displacement pumps in the market. They have a chambered rotor which rotates inside of a pump body but eccentric to the body center. The pump body contains liquid which is thrown by centrifugal force to the outside of the body thus creating a liquid ring. The liquid advances and retreats inside of the rotor chambers creating the pumping action. A more complete description of this pump will be done in a subsequent article. These are the largest vacuum pumps and can achieve 1.5 psia in a single stage and .5 psia in a dual stage.
4. Rotary vane pump – these designs can either be dry (without lubrication) or oil filled. The dry options are very durable and consist of carbon vanes that will wear down slowly pulling up to 1 psia. The oil filled designs have an oil reservoir for lubrication and can pull up to 0.5 psig.
5. Scroll pump – this is the highest speed dry vacuum pump available in the market. Scroll/spiral compressors are they are commonly known use two interleaving scrolls that pump gas. These systems are more common for heaters and air conditioners with limited use for vacuum formation.
What is the best vacuum size pump?
The vacuum pump does two things: it reduces the pressure below atmospheric and it moves gas. The size of the vacuum pump is determined by both how deep the vacuum you need and how much gas is in or is going through the chamber (or leaking into it).
We commonly see three types of applications. If you are evacuating a space, you will need to know how big the space is, what level of vacuum you need, how fast you want to achieve the vacuum, and the anticipated leakage into that space. If you are running a process, you will need to know the throughput of the process and the compression across the vacuum pump. If you are running a filter, you will need to know the vacuum desired and the porosity of the filter.
For the common applications, for instance a dairy for milk machines or a dental office for the suction used there, you simply buy a pump from one of the reputable manufacturers. If you have a custom application you can contact us and we can quickly determine your needs.
All pump manufactures publish performance curves which show the capacity of the pump versus the vacuum achieved. You can also check these documents if you care to size the pump yourself.
How to change Engine Oil using Vacuum Pump Extractor
In this guide, you will find step-by-step instructions (with pictures and video clips) on how to change engine oil using an oil extraction pump. Car owners who would like to change engine oil themselves, love this method becasue is easy and efficient.
You no longer need to get your hands dirty or spill oil over the garage floor. This method is quick, easy and safer way to change the engine oil. If you have stripped the oil drain plug in the past or had a hard time removing it, you will appreciate the method of using an extractor to change the oil. Often this is referred to as the top-down or topside oil change method.
In this tutorial, we use a 12V electrical oil extractor pump (you can also use an oil vacuum extraction pump) to remove the oil from the engine. The procedure is the same. We do this by inserting a small tube into the oil dipstick tube which allows us to siphon oil from the engine.
Is your oil filter located on top of the engine? If so, consider yourself lucky. You don’t even need to get under the car at all. Even if the oil filter can only be accessed from under the engine, you don’t need to struggle to remove the oil drain plug or even worse strip it.
While people have their opinions about using an extractor, this method works perfectly fine and is often used at quick oil change oil shops and by many auto mechanics. On a few cars extracting the oil is the only way to do an oil change.
Benefits of changing engine oil using an oil extraction pump:
- Fewer tools required to change the oil
- Easier and safer method to change the oil
- You don’t have to struggle with removing the drain plug. No need to replace the drain bolt washer either.
- No chance of an oil leak due to an improper torque of the drain plug.
The only drawback of changing the engine oil with an extraction pump is that a minimal amount of old oil may remain in the pan. It is insignificant since typically less than 5% of old oil remains. If you do regular oil changes, then an oil extractor is perfectly an acceptable way to change the oil. In a neglected engine, debris and sludge sit at the bottom of the oil pan and may not be picked up by the oil extractor.
What you will need
- Oil Fluid Extractor Pump
There are two main designs to consider.
- Oil Vacuum Extractor
These oil extractors come with a container and a manual pump that you will have to pump to get the oil out. The oil vacuum extractors have been around for a long time. Not only do they require manual labor but they also are large and require space to store them.
- Electrical Oil Extractor
An electrical oil extractor is a lot easier to use. Connect it to a 12-volt battery source such as your car battery and let it do its job. You will need a container to collect the old oil, but that’s not an issue. The other advantage of the using an electrical oil extractor is that they are very easy to store and put away.
- Oil Vacuum Extractor
If your oil filter has to be accessed from the bottom of the engine, you will need to use ramps to raise the car and get to the filter. If your oil filter is on top of the engine, you don’t need ramps.
- Oil filter removal tool
Regardless if your oil filter is on top of the engine or the bottom, you will need oil removal tool. There are many oil filter tools on the market such as three-prong oil tool, strap oil filter tool, and chain oil filter tool. Ideally, our favorite tool that works better than any of the ones we mentioned is, oil filter pliers as they work on almost any oil filter.
Before you get started
Check if your car has Oil dipstick tube
- This may sound like a strange requirement, but it is important to point out. Many modern cars do not have an oil dipstick and tube. This was common among European cars between 2005 and 2010, especially with BMW and Mercedes. Newer car models typically have a dipstick, even the European ones. Just double check before you get started.
Rember to replace oil filter
It is important to always replace the oil filter as well. Old oil filter may get clogged collapse, break apart if they are used more than the recommended interval. If the oil filter created a restriction in the oil flow, the oil would bypass the oil filter. It is better for the engine to get any oil than not get any oil at all. You don’t want the unfiltered oil to lubricate your engine
Instructions on how to change engine oil using an vacuum pump
Follow these steps to change the oil using a vacuum extraction pump or electrical pump.
Get the engine oil warm
Turn off the engine and let it cool down for at least 15 min. If the engine is cold, start it up and run it for a couple of minutes. You want the oil to be warm but not hot.
Open the hood and remove the oil dipstick.
Insert the tube into the oil dipstick.
Push the tube until it stops. Typically it should go into the dipstick about two to three feet. Note that some extraction pumps have two piece tube.
Ensure that the two tubes are tight together. Otherwise, one of the tubes can fall out and get stuck in the oil dipstick.
Connect the oil extraction pump
If you are using a 12V Motor Oil Extractor, insert the other side of the tube (discharge side) into an empty container. Ideally, a clear container or one that you can measure the amount of oil that you are extracting.
Connect the extraction pump to your car battery.
- Positive: Red clamp on (+) battery post (note red battery cable).
- Negative: Black clamp on (-) battery post (note black battery cable).
Extract oil from the engine
Turn on the extraction pump.
If you are using a vacuum extraction pump, there is no need to connect it to the battery, because you can’t. Instead, start pumping the oil and be ready to get a good workout.
Suck out all of the engine oil
Let the oil extractor pump run for about 10 to 20 minutes. You will know when it is finished extracting the oil, as you will see air bubbles on your oil container. If you pay close attention, you will notice that the sound of the electrical oil extractor will change when it is finished extracting the oil as at this point it will run dry.
When you think all the oil is extracted, move the tube into the dipstick by pushing it down or twisting it slightly. This will ensure you are sucking all the oil at the bottom of the oil pan/sump.
Remove the oil tube from the engine. Make sure to have a rag ready as a small amount of oil will drip out of the tube.
Replace engine oil filter
If your oil filter is on top of the engine, consider yourself lucky. Replace the oil filter which in most cases is cartridge oil filter type usually found on BMW and Mercedes-Benz.
On Japanese and American cars, you may need to get under the car to access the engine oil filter.
Roll the car up on ramps. Make sure to set the parking brake and block the rear tires.
Add engine oil
Check your owner’s manual the amount of engine oil you need to add.
Add the recommended quantity minus half a quart. If your car requires 4.5 quarts add only four as a starting point. Let the oil make its way to the oil pan and check the engine oil.
Check the oil level and add more oil if necessary to bring the level between the Min and Max mark.
- Don’t force the suction tube in the dipstick if it is too large. Otherwise, you risk getting the tube stuck in the dipstick.
- Make sure the tube is pushed in all the way, and it is at the lowest point of the pan.
- On some car engines that have the oil filter installed on top. It is possible to remove the oil filter and use this channel to insert the tube and extract oil.
- Note that by changing the oil yourself you may void your warranty. Unfortunately, some car manufacturers require that you pay a technician to change your oil.
What is the best oil extractor for changing engine oil?
Two of the most popular oil extractors pumps which you can buy from the major online retailer are:
- EWK Oil Vacuum Fluid Extractor Allows you to store up to 6.5 liters of oil. Comes with several size hoses that can be easily changed. Has great user reviews. Easy to drain.
- 12v Motor Oil and Diesel Extractor Easy to store anywhere. Just turn it on and let it do its job. Perfect for DIY oil changes. Can be used on differentials and transmission to extract or even transfer fluids.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes, there may be a small amount of oil left in the oil pan, but the same is usually true when you drain via drain bolt. In many, cases, the bolt isn’t always at the lowest point of the oil pan. If you have a well-maintained vehicle the is no reason to worry about using the oil extraction method. Make sure to change the oil filter as well.
- Make sure the oil extractor has a large capacity to hold all your oil.
- Consider an electrical oil extractor
- If you are buying a vacuum oil extractor, look for one that allows you to easily discharge the old oil.
Two of the most used oil extractor are the vacuum type and electric oil extractors. Both these methods are great for alternatives if you are looking to use for DIY oil changes.
- Mityvac Fluid Evacuator
- Airpower America
- Hydro-Turf Oil Extractor
- Briggs & Stratton Oil Extractor Pump
- OEMTOOLS Fluid Evacuator
- Koehler Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit
- XtremepowerUS 12v Fluid Oil Diesel Extractor
- EWK Pneumatic / Manual 6.5 Liter Oil Changer Vacuum Fluid Extractor Pump Tank Remover
- Pela 650 Oil Extractor
- Astro 7351 Air Operated Oil Evacuator — 8 Gallon
- Yamaha engine oil extractor
If you change the oil regularly using an oil extraction pump is acceptable. Note that the benefit of removing the drain plug and draining the oil is that you get out almost all of the old oil. When using an oil extraction pump a little bit of old oil will remain. If there are any small amounts of metal debris or particular matter in the old oil, it shouldn’t be a problem as the oil filter will trap them. Make sure to replace the oil filter even if you extract the oil.
If you have an engine that thus engines sludge, it is better to drain the oil than extract it. Don’t neglect your car. Change your oil at the recommended intervals, and you shouldn’t have this problem.
Using an oil extractor is a great way to change the engine oil as long as your car has a dipstick. If your oil filter is mounted on top of the engine and you don’t want to invest in a lot of tools to do basic car maintenance such as an oil change, this method will save you money, time and headaches.
Did you know that in some cases such as (Smart car) the only way to change the oil is using the oil extraction method? If you insist in draining the oil but are looking for an easy and fast way to change the engine oil, consider installing an oil drain valve such as the Fumoto Engine Oil Drain Valve. It will make changing the oil quick and easy and allow you to actually drain the oil.
Changing the engine oil with an oil extraction pump is easy and less messy than removing the drain plug and draining the oil. Changing the motor oil with an oil extraction pump is the perfect method if you are just starting out with DIY auto repair or are tired of making a mess every time you change the oil.
Make sure to recycle your old oil. All auto parts stores that sell oil including AutoZone, Advance Auto Parts, PepBoy even Walmart collect old oil free of charge.
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How to Buy a HVAC Vacuum Pump – HVAC How To
When it comes to HVAC tools and equipment, the word good is not always accompanied by the word affordable from HVAC multimeters to refrigerant scales. And this also applies to HVAC vacuum pumps while buying a cheap one is a option, and what I did when I started in the HVAC field, I wouldn’t suggest it if you plan on this for a career. That being said if you are just starting out then it can be expensive to buy all the tools and equipment it takes to get started, especially as expensive as a HVAC tools can be.
When looking to buy a HVAC pump three things matter the quality, size, and the horse power. Most often HVAC technicians will buy the biggest pump they can afford and while this is not a bad idea many times it is completely unnecessary. Yes a larger pump will pull a system down quicker saving time but it also depends on the size of the unit.
CFM stand for cubic feet a minute and is how fast a vacuum pump can move air. Here is the ASHRAE recommended size to pump down a unit. Of course except for very large units any pump will eventually pump down a system given enough time.
System size (tons) Pump cfm
1-10 ton use a 1.5 cfm pump.
10-15 ton use a 2.0 cfm pump.
15-30 ton use a 4.0 cfm pump.
30-45 ton use a 6.0 cfm pump.
45-60 ton use a 8.0 cfm pump.
60 and above ton use a 11.0 cfm pump.
All of this is going to depend on the person and if they are working with commercial, residential, or both. Also as I know all too well money is always a factor, so in reality anything less then 4 CFM is usually not considered because of the time factor.
Our Picks For HVAC Vacuum Pumps 2015
Category: HVAC how to
How To Use — LA Pump #1 World Famous Penis Pump — Premium Penis Pumps
Operation of the air valve
Turn the valve on top of the cylinder clockwise to maintain the vacuum. Never over tighten this valve as too much pressure may damage the internal seal. To release the vacuum, loosen the valve (turn counter Clockwise) a half turn or until you hear the air release.
Use of the vacuum pump and cylinders
- Connect the pump to the cylinder by pushing the male coupler on the pump hose to the female coupler on the cylinder. You will hear an audible click when the two couplers are successfully connected. (To disconnect the couplers push in on the metal tab on the side of the female connector and the hose will be released). The female coupler attached to the cylinder may be turned clockwise to release pressure from the cylinder and tightened so the vacuum will remain in the cylinder. (Never over-tighten the coupler to avoid damage) Premium pumps have an air-release mechanism on the side of the body of the pump (A small pin like on a tire stem) just push in and release while cylinder is attached.
- You may release the hose from the cylinder with the quick disconnect valve after you have reached the desired pressure. The valve allows pressure to be held without being attached to the pump.
- Before placing the penis inside of the cylinder lubricate your penis well with a personal lubricant. We suggest “Sex Grease” a premium quality water based brand that is available from our online store. Formulated with Herbs and vitamins to attain a maximum lubricity for use by vacuum pumpers on sensitive skin and delicate tissue. Lube the penis well so it will be drawn into the cylinder with limited friction, ensuring comfort and maximum results. Apply some lube to the flared area of the cylinder to help in attaining a good vacuum seal.
- Some pumpers shave or trim the hair at the base of the pubis to help maintain a good vacuum seal. Alternately, a thick petroleum based lubricant (like Vaseline) can be used to help achieve a seal if you are very hairy. Petroleum based lubes are messy and don’t wash off as easily as our Sex Grease.
- Place the penis in the cylinder, hold the cylinder against the groin area of the body and pump gently until you find the best comfort level for you, each person’s comfort level is different. To avoid having your scrotum sack sucked in the tube pull down on your testicles and sack till the pressure is formed in the cylinder.
- Do not vacuum pump for more than 15 minutes at a time. Only pump to a level of comfort, never past that point. This will be different for each individual, as tissue types vary from person to person. Take it easy, it is not necessary to use a lot of pressure to get good results. (For those who have a premium pump, pressure levels should be kept between 4-6 on the outside vacuum gauge.) We find the best results are achieved with a 15 minute session 4 times a week. Advanced pumpers may choose to pump 2-3 sessions per day, with a rest period of 10-15 minutes between each.
- Heat helps with the expansion and softening of tissue, we suggest pumping while in the bath, shower or Jacuzzi. When using a premium pump you should vacuum the cylinder and disconnect the pump (Premium pumps are only to be used in a dry environment) Some suggest use of a heating pad or heat lamp, we advise extreme caution in use of external heating devices, as they may cause damage. (Note also that using electrical devices in or near water is obviously not a good idea.)
- Experimentation will be the best teacher of what is best for you, take the time to experiment for the best experience with your system. Many men enjoy masturbating while in the cylinder. Your dedication to regular pumping (like exercise) on a daily basis, will produce the best over all results.
- After each pumping session we recommend that you massage your genitals, take your time, this will help you attain maximum results and good penis health.
Care and storage of Pumps and Cylinders
Pumps should cleaned after use and stored dry. Cylinders may be cleaned with a mild antibacterial detergent. Avoid using harsh chemicals or abrasive materials in order to preserve the clarity of your cylinders. Cylinder connectors should be loosened slightly prior to storage. (i.e.: not screwed tight.) Cleaning cylinders or pumps in an automatic dishwasher is NOT recommended, and will void your warranty.
Hints for Foreskin Pumping
Place the clear plastic foreskin ball on the head of the penis. Carefully pull the foreskin over the ball. Make sure to put a liberal amount of lubricant on the foreskin, penis head and cylinder.
Place the foreskin cylinder over the foreskin and the clear plastic foreskin ball ( make sure the pump is already attached to the foreskin cylinder) and pump gently until you have drawn the foreskin around the foreskin ball and into the foreskin cylinder. This is a rather complicated and somewhat awkward process, but many have reported favorable success. Follow the hints above, they apply to foreskin pumping as well as penis pumping. We are dedicated to SAFE, HEALTHY SEX. Our Sex Grease is latex condom compatible. If you use an oil or petroleum based lubricant it is not condom safe. (Oil based lubes degrade the latex and will cause condoms to break.) Please check to see if your lube is safe, PLAY RESPONSIBLY, PLAY SAFE!!!!!
WARNING: To avoid injury or aggravation of preexisting conditions, vacuum pumps should not be used on rashes, swollen or inflamed areas or skin lacerations. Discontinue use immediately if you experience any pain. We recommend you do not keep the vacuum applied for longer than 15 minutes. If you feel any pain or discomfort stop using the product immediately and consult a physician. These products are recreational in nature, and are offered as novelty items. The producers, manufacturer and distributors disclaim any responsibility or liability, in connection with the use of these products.
Guaranteed To Work
LA Pumps are 100% results guaranteed
The system is designed to assist those who suffer from erectile dysfunction or have problems getting an erection. The pump works by permanently increasing penis size over time. We money back guarantee it.