How to use a hand planer – How To Use A Hand Plane

Wood Planes — Bob Vila

Wood Planes

Photo: Flickr

Very few workshop tasks can be as satisfying as putting a wood plane through its paces. There you are, just you and, say, a molding plane, standing over a board fixed in place on the workbench. Your first stroke is gentle, even tentative, as you establish the line you will follow. After a few more passes, your stroke now strong and sure, the profile begins to appear. Pretty soon, there’s a molding there, a bead or an ogee or a quirk ovolo.

Whatever the planing task before you or the type of plane to be used, there are some constants. One is balance: Get positioned so that you can use your weight and the strength in your shoulders and upper body. This isn’t work for the lower arms alone. The work- piece should be clamped at a comfortable height in front of you.

Most planes work best two-handed, with the left hand guiding the plane at the front, the right driving from the rear. You may also find that positioning the front hand so that the fingertips or the heel of the hand just brush the stock may help guide your stroke.

Trueing an Edge. Use the longest plane you have, preferably a jointer or jack plane. The longer the plane, the less it will exaggerate any existing troughs and crests cut into the edge. Clamp the stock to be planed in a vise, then set the plane at the end of the piece. Work with the grain. Before pushing the tool along the length of the board, apply some pressure at the front of the plane to be sure the sole sits flush to the piece (rather than on an incline, with the toe lifted above the piece). Likewise, be sure the heel sits flush to the board as the plane reaches the end of the planing stroke, shifting some of your weight to the back of the tool. This prevents “dipping,” in which more wood is planed from the ends than from the center of the stock.

Lift the plane at the end of the stroke, and carry it back to the starting point. Don’t drag it backwards. Plane irons get dull quickly enough without unnecessary wear and tear. Check the flatness of your work with a straightedge as you go along. A steel framing square will do.

Smoothing Flat Stock. This is a two-step process if you are using unplaned stock or if the workpiece consists of glued-up pieces. For hardwoods, begin by planing diagonally to the grain, perhaps at a forty-five- degree angle, more with some hardwoods. Use a long-soled bench plane like a jack or, for a large workpiece such as a tabletop, a jointer plane.

The iron must be set to plane very fine shavings (thicker shavings will tend to tear the grain). Work from side to side, planing one way and then the other, until the surface is level.

Cutting a Rabbet. This may seem to defy reason, but the rabbet is most easily started at the forward end of the workpiece. Use short strokes at first, gradually moving farther back on the piece. If the plane you are using has a depth stop, work until it contacts the workpiece and stops the planing. If the plane has no depth stop, work to a line you have left with a marking gauge.

How to use a cordless hand planer

The cordless hand planer or handheld power planer demands care and respect, but it’s very fast and simple to use. Just don’t try to remove too much material at one time.

The cordless hand planer, or handheld power planer, is an improvement on the traditional hand planer. Here’s how to use a cordless hand planer.

Cordless hand planers provide a faster, less tiring way of removing material when fitting wood components together, such as planing a ceiling joist flat for drywall, shaving a sticking door, profiling a replacement board to fit into a damaged hardwood floor or removing roughness or old paint from a surface.

How to use a cordless hand planer

The cordless hand planer or handheld power planer demands care and respect, but it’s very fast and simple to use. Just don’t try to remove too much material at one time. Better to take several passes of 1/16 inch.

To set the depth of cut, all hand planers use a fixed rear platen, a cutter drum with replaceable blades and an adjustable front platen. The depth adjustment is made using a rotary knob on top of the front platen that will probably have detent positions. That knob also doubles as a handle when using the planer.

There will be one, two or three blades with the smoother, and expect to make faster cuts with a hand planer with more blades and higher motor speeds. The blades shouldn’t require frequent changes but look at the blade or knife-clamping method to be sure it’s easy to use. Also, it may prove useful to look at a planer that has reversible blades that can be turned over when the blades get dull.

Another desirable feature is the ability to set the direction the wood chips will exit the tool, and there should be a switch that allows you to select a left or right direction. This can also be achieved by swapping the dust collector connector from one side to the other on some models.

Other features available are various guides for cutting rabbets or for helping position the planer on the edge of the board. A grooved front platen acts as a guide for making beveled edges. Also useful is a “kickstand” that flips down to prevent the blades from contacting the surface when the tool is idle.

In use, the hand planer is much like using a conventional surface planer though it takes much less effort. It requires some concentration and, of course, care to keep the hand planer square to the board when planning the edge.

Cutting requires varying pressure on the hand planer. Apply most pressure on the front platen at the start of the pass. Then shift to pressing down on both platens through the middle section. And finally, shift pressure to the back platen as you complete the pass to avoid taking a deeper cut as the cutting head leaves the end of the wood.

Planers have fast-spinning drums with exceedingly sharp blades. Cordless hand planers, especially, must be treated with great caution.

How to use a hand planer safely

Planers have fast-spinning drums with exceedingly sharp blades. Cordless hand planers, especially, must be treated with great caution.

Hand planers throw dust and fast-moving wood particles so eye protection is strongly recommended. Always use ear protection. Never wear loose clothing.  Always hold the tool with both hands so there is no opportunity to touch the blades.

Do not put down a hand planer until the drum has stopped spinning.

–By Steve Sturgess,

How to Use a Hand Plane

Shave wood and make board edges smooth with a hand plane. The leading
edge is called the toe; the trailing edge is called the
heel.Difficulty:Moderately EasyInstructions Things You’ll
Hand Planes

Use a vise to clamp your work.
Tilt the board a little bit so that you will be planing just slightly
Set the plane blade depth with the adjusting knob found
behind the toe handle.
Grip the toe and heel knobs firmly.
the plane along the wood with long, smooth strokes.
Press a little
harder on the toe at the beginning of the stroke and a little harder
on the heel at the end of the stroke to avoid overplaning at the
Check the cuttings

The joys of using hand tools in woodworking is like nothing else. The
one tool that stands alone is the hand plane. Learning to use one of
these planes can be satisfying and is almost considered a woodworking
right of passage. The key to success is having a well tuned hand
plane.Difficulty:Moderately ChallengingInstructions Things You’ll
Flat blade screwdriver
Mineral spirits
Steel wool
Granite plate
220-grit wet or dry
Black marker
Paste wax
class=»error»>Check the Adjustment MechanisimsDisassemble the hand
plane and inspect the parts for dirt or rust. If it’s new, look for
anti-rust grease that’s applied at the

Hobbies, Games & Toys

Hand planes are used to remove wood from the surfaces of wooden
boards, much like chisels but more efficiently and evenly. Making your
own hand plane is a simple and rewarding project for the
do-it-yourselfer. It can be made even easier by the availability of
hand plane kits which still require some assembly. A hand plane kit
can be purchased at your local hardware store or
online.Difficulty:EasyInstructions Things You’ll Need
Hand plane
Wooden hammer
Honing film
Wooden board
class=»error»>Lay out all the pieces from the kit. Make sure you have
three hand plane body pieces, a cross peg, eight wooden

Hobbies, Games & Toys

A plane is a hand tool used to smooth, shape and straighten wood. Its
blade, or «iron,» can shave off the thinnest sliver of wood from a
plank, frame, board or door. Needing no power source other than
muscle, a wood plane is portable and quiet to use. Planes come in a
range of sizes, from the 24-inch jointer, which is good for doors,
floorboards and long straight edges, to the 5-1/2-inch smooth plane,
used to trim the smallest areas of
wood.Difficulty:ModerateInstructions Things You’ll
Medium-grit and fine-grit sandpaper
Marble tile
Workbench with vise
Wax candle
class=»error»>PreparationTake the iron, or blade, out of the plane to
hone it. The bla

Home & Garden

Tuning a hand plane sounds like a strange thing to do, but it really
isn’t. A hand plane is a complex instrument. A modern plane has as
many as 12 parts, all of which have to fit as close to perfectly as
possible. Angles have to be correct, surfaces must be as flat as
possible and edges must be exceedingly sharp to get an effortless
planing experience.
You would think that a new plane would come
properly tuned out of the box, but unfortunately, only the most
expensive ones do. Almost all others must be tuned to get them to do a
good job.Difficulty:Moderately EasyInstructions Things You’ll
Steel straightedge

Hobbies, Games & Toys

You can flatten a board’s face and square its edges with a properly
handled plane. A hand plane will put a finished surface on the board,
making the wood ready for staining or dyeing without sanding. It makes
no noise, creates almost no dust, and connects you to the wood in a
way that no power tool can. Using a hand plane is a skill that
requires diligence to master, but improved finishing and higher
quality woodwork make it a worthwhile endeavor.Difficulty:Moderately
EasyInstructions Things You’ll Need
Hand plane
class=»error»>Orient the board on your workbench or in a vise so that
you will plane with the grain. Planing against the grain will result
in tear-out and tearing o

Hobbies, Games & Toys

There is nothing quite as satisfying as creating something out of a
piece of wood using your own two hands. Working with tools such as a
hand plane can make woodworking projects even more fulfilling.
However, without proper maintenance, using a hand plane is difficult
and frustrating. Like all cutting tools, a hand plane must be
sharpened periodically or it will become inefficient. Creating an
optimal cutting surface is not difficult, but it does require the
right tools and a few minutes of time.Difficulty:Moderately
EasyInstructions Things You’ll Need
Bench grinder
Safety glasses
Light machine oil
/>Sharpening stone

Home & Garden

Radio-controlled models or toys provide hours of entertainment for
children and adults of all ages. Radio-controlled airplanes are a
little more expensive than some of the other RC toys, so when you want
to start flying them, you must be a little more careful. The two ways
to take off an RC plane are from a tarmac, or a hand launch, which you
can do without landing gear or any kind of
runway.Difficulty:Moderately EasyInstructions Turn the transmitter
on your radio control and the receiver on the plane on. Balance the
plane in the hand on your throwing arm. For most people, this is the
same hand they eat and write with. Hold the radio control in your
other hand.
Aim the plane’s nose dow

Hobbies, Games & Toys

Hand Planes: How and Why You Do (and Don’t) Use Them — Woodworking | Blog | Videos | Plans

In the last eZine, Rob asked about eZine readers’ use of hand planes, and what challenges you’ve experienced in using them.

Some readers just aren’t very fond of using hand planes. – Editor

“I just have a block plane.  When I need it, I have to have it, but there are so many ways to smooth and flatten wood without the sweat. My go-to flattener is my drum sander.” – Phil Zoeller

“I am 78 and in my shop almost every day and I can’t remember the last time I used a hand plane. I have three (different sizes), and I don’t even know why I bought them many years ago. There are other tools in my shop that do the job better, faster, and less tiring. Hand planes do seem to be fascinating for collectors.” –  Ron Dvorsky

“I have not touched mine since my grandfather gave them to me. I will be 70 in October. It has nothing to do with results. With all the other toys I own, why bother with the plane?” – Neal Schwabauer

“Unless I have a lot of time and need a particular profile, I almost never use a hand plane.  1. I’m not good with them. 2. I [stink] at sharpening anything. 3. My joiner and my planer are within five steps in my shop.” – E.J. Eiteljorge

“First, I am primarily a turner, so my use of hand planes is limited. Part of my limitation with planes is in tuning, getting the blade position just so. It’s sharp, but often high on one side. The other part is laziness. I have a 22/44 surface planer, and it’s so easy to just run a board through there.” –  Barry Saltsberg

“Been doing hobby woodworking for more than 40 years. Seldom ever use a hand plane except to finish a lip on a drawer or box. Seems a sander does a better job for me. A hand plane (I have four different planes) nearly always chips out or tears out a chunk, even as sharp as I keep my planes. Perhaps I am using the planes all wrong. Never had any formal training; just picked up on what others are doing along my learning curve.” Reg H.  Langley

“Your qualification about surfacing wood assumes that the woodworker is going to prepare the stock by hand.  While I know how to do that, it would not qualify as one of the fun aspects of woodworking.  A good powered jointer and planer are much faster and probably more accurate. I do have a number of planes that I don’t use, or use very seldom – but I’m not ready to get rid of them yet.” – Mike Henderson

“I find it easier and sometimes quicker to grab a plane for small jobs or even joint a couple of small boards easier than using a powered jointer at the other side of the shop, not to mention it’s a lot quieter! However, I love my thickness planer and won’t try to do that job by hand. I will deal with the noise and dust/chips instead of wear my arm/shoulder in a sling for a day afterwards. I have effectively wore my joints out as a FF/EMT-A for 15 years, so I tend to lean towards easier means of woodwork.” – Kevin Hanes

For some, there is a learning curve associated with hand plane use, whether it’s sharpening or another aspect. Some feel they’ve mastered it; others, not so much. – Editor

“ I have a couple of small planes I inherited from my father, but I do not use them. Sharpening anything but a pocketknife or my wife’s cutlery is the only thing I feel competent doing. My attempts at sharpening my wood chisels have not been successful, so sharpening my plane blades would not be pretty.“ – Dave Rice

“I use hand planes for almost every phase of a project: block plane about 90 percent of that, and my bench chisels even more often. Challenged by keeping them sharpened.” – Dale Smith

“My biggest plane challenge was to switching from plug-and-go mode back to shop class basics. So I watched several videos on plane tune-ups.  It took all of about 30 minutes to tune a very off-brand tool.  Now this HF tool is my go-to plane.” –  Steve Boyle

“Put me with the majority who do not use a hand plane for finishing. However, I do often use a hand plane to remove glue, level edge banding on plywood panels, make small changes in joints for a better fit and other ‘cleanup’ work. I don’t own a long plane for finishing. Also, I never feel confident that my hand plane is set up optimally. I keep my irons sharp using the marble tile/sandpaper method. I usually take them to 5,000-grit. I also use a holder to keep the irons at the right angle. I experimented with different angles, but again, wasn’t sure if the effort was worth it or not. I enjoy the sound and feel of the hand plane, but just not enough to commit totally.” – Rich Franks

“You hit the nail on the head for why many of us don’t use them more often.  Before I splurged for the Worksharp 3000, I didn’t use my hand planes very much at all because I never got good results from them.  And I hated sharpening them, because I never had a system that I felt comfortable with for sharpening beyond a mediocre result.  With the WS3K combined with a few buffing wheels & compounds on a bench grinder, I get Jimmy Diresta ‘arm shaving’ sharp blades in very little time.  Resultantly, I find a use for my hand planes on nearly every project now.  As the saying goes, ‘When you have a hammer, there is a tendency to make everything a nail.” – Andrew Thiessen

.“My problem was getting a super sharp blade.  My old No.4 was carefully tuned, and I thought the blade was well sharpened, but it didn’t perform as well as I expected.  So it wasn’t used often. Then I got a new Veritas low-angle smoother, and it was great out of the box.

“Along the way, I started to experiment with sharpening and honing with ceramic stones, primarily Shaptons, and WOW!  My old No. 4 now is as good as the new Veritas.  So the answer is you really need to sharpen.  I now use the planes a lot.” – Bruce Wedlock

And some readers use their planes and, in fact, are quite fond of them. – Editor

“When I was a lad (Don’t stories that start that way make you feel elderly?), I rarely used a bench plane. In fact, I wasn’t allowed to because that was my father’s tool. Moving into a smaller shop limits the power tools and necessitates tools-on-wheels to get things done. The hand plane does an excellent job, quiet and with little dust. All good qualities, but the real difference came when I built a decent workbench with end and leg vises. It made a huge difference and led to actual quality finishes with hand tools.” – Doug Walkey

“I tend to use my hand planes (Nos. 4, 5, 6, plow, block and shoulder) for the tasks of squaring, surfacing and trimming smaller project work, particularly for pieces where using my planer/thicknesser would be dangerous. The use of my planes therefore depends very much on my projects at the time. There always will be tasks for which only a hand plane can do the job, e.g. preparing the cross-banding inserts for cribbage boards!” – Glenn Hunt

“I love to use my hand planes and look for ways to use them on every project. I give credit for this to Paul Sellers’ sharpening method which I find fast, convenient, and non-messy.” – Thomas Wilson

“I don’t do anything without a hand plane next to me, and it may be a bench plane, block plane, rabbet plane, etc. Sounds like I am one of the bottom eight, or top eight, or a minority in other words. I don’t have power tools, space or desire for more noise, and, while good tools are expensive, sometimes no cheaper than powered tools, I think of them as things that will outlive me. That’s my justification for having them and the space and noise is my justification for using them.” – Sam Zaydel

“I use mine on every project: an old Stanley #7 to true and square up edges after table saw sizing; every surface is planed with a smoother even after running through my Powermatic 15” helical head planer.  You just can’t beat hand planing or hand planed surfaces, but then I’m 66 and have been doing hand work for decades” – John G. Eugster

“I use my hand plane often. Especially when I work on edges and so on. I am sure that it is an ‘age’ thing. I am 63 and still find that the best results for me is to use my hand planes to get the best result on edges. Whenever I need to [work on] bigger flat surfaces I will make use of my electric planer/thickener.” –  Dan Pienaar

“Count me in; I’m using hand planes (and hand saws as well!), and really enjoy them.  But I do understand about their using having a pretty big learning curve, both the basic use for surfacing and other functions, but also in terms of maintenance (sharpening, etc.).” – Jim Amos

“I use machinery to take roughsawn boards to dressed face and edge, or
DAR; after that I use hand planes almost exclusively. There would not be
a day in the shop when I am not using a plane, and my favorite planes
are those I have made using the Krenov method.” – David Gunn

“I am primarily a model maker: wooden ships and boats and other boats that wood is either the primary material or a lesser material.  I use a plane quite often, but it’s a small finger plane.  It’s only 1-1/2″ long and 5/8″ wide with a brass body and the only marking on it is ESE on the left side.  Have used it for years.

“Recently I started to use a #2 Lie Neilsen plane in the shop on some pretty small parts where I needed a bit longer tool surface.  It works wonders in bringing a solid block to a hull shape that can then be worked with gouges and the finger plane.  I am not using it to level the surface but to make parallel cuts to bring the gently curved sides closer to size.  Just like working a flat board, I need to work with the grain, not against it, but this plane really does the job.” – Kurt van Dahm

“Hand planes are something that have more recently (in the last couple years) come into my shop out of my desire to learn more about using hand tools and developing the craft and skill necessary to shape wood without relying on loud, dusty machines that take up space most of the time. I enjoy the solitary pleasure of shaping and forming wood by hand. While it’s often not as fast as the machines, and while my skill definitely needs improving, I prefer the minor imperfections of my skill over a ‘perfect’ surface that I feel like I had little to do with.

“More and more I am relying on hand planes, along with other hand tools.  The big drawbacks for me are having enough time to develop the necessary skill, and the budget to acquire the high quality of tools that really make the results so much better.  The big advantage is that the work is much quieter, cleaner, and satisfying. The quiet part is important for two reasons beyond my hearing: I live in the city and my neighbors appreciate it, and I have baby at home, and I can work during naps!” – Robert Jack

“Perhaps I can put it in perspective. Do I take the cover off the jointer/planer machine and roll it out into the working environment? Then plug it in and attach the dust collector? All for one edge that somehow didn’t get machined when I machined 30 or 40 board feet for a project. I’ll dig out the hand plane to do the job. Or when I need to break/chamfer an edge of a piece rather than setting up the router table. Generally, I try to plan my work so that it is one machine operation at a time.” –  Rich Flynn

“I don’t normally respond to these questions. I have spent 28 years playing at woodworking. I cannot imagine doing any of my projects without my hand tools complementing the power tools. They work to make each other more enjoyable and fast. To me there is nothing like an early morning, a sleeping household, a fresh cup of coffee and using my finish plane on the project at hand. There is truly something soothing about the sound of curls of coming off the plane. Those saved plane shavings are saved for fire starter in the fire pit when it’s chilly.” – Bill Perez

“I use my planes more and more all the time. In my 75 years, I’ve always had at least one in my set of tools.  I’ve now got six planes that occupy space at my bench. Although I do most of my work with machines and power tools, I can’t remember a project done without a hand plane. Most woodworkers don’t know the capabilities of them and so don’t see the value in learning skills necessary to sharpen, set up, and use them.” – Bill Needham

“I use mine almost exclusively. I have a handheld power planer as well as a Dewalt 12″ surface planer but probably use them once a year combined.  A good, sharp hand plane leaves a finish that is not even attainable with sandpaper in a fraction of the time.  It does take a little time to get one sharp and tuned up but, once you’ve done it, you never need to do anything but touch up the blade now and then.  Most of mine are old Stanley Bailey models that used to belong to my father or grandfather.  They still work like brand-new.  Properly sharpened, you can shave a strip off the side of a piece of 1-inch lumber that you can read the newspaper through.  Nothing like it.” –  Chuck Chall

How to choose and use hand planes – Canadian Home Workshop

Every time I mention a hand plane to a group of woodworkers in my workshop, I see their eyes glaze over. People love their tablesaws, jointers and planers–generally, anything with a large motor on it. But I can’t emphasize enough how important hand tools are to get your woodworking to a level not attainable by machines alone. You’ll upgrade from a 15″ thickness planer to a 20″ model and then find you need to build a 24″-wide panel just a week later! Only a hand plane can make that wide panel truly flat. A belt sander is worth a try, but the hand plane is the real star once you know how to use it. For some more advanced techniques, such as mortise-and-tenon joinery, I believe that only a hand plane can achieve the perfect fit. Hand planes are essential tools and, in skilled hands, can achieve a level of accuracy you just won’t get with machines alone.

Types of hand planes

There are many specialized hand planes out there, but the three I recommend, if you don’t already own some, are the following:

1. No. 4 smoothing plane for flattening medium- to small-sized panels and other long-grain work.

2. Regular-angle block plane for long-grain work in tighter quarters, for more delicate work or for situations in which using the plane with one hand is helpful.

3. Low-angle block plane for end-grain work, such as trimming the ends of dovetails, finger joints and through mortise-and-tenon work.

Back to basics

A big distinction lies between a bevel-down plane, such as a No. 4 smoothing plane, and a bevel-up plane, such as a block plane. The bevel-down plane has the blade’s bevel on the underside of the blade. The angle of the plane’s frog, which holds the blade in the plane body, determines the effective cutting angle. The standard angle is 45º, which is too steep for end-grain work but works well for long-grain work except in very difficult grain-reversing situations.

A bevel-up plane, on the other hand, has the blade’s bevel on the top face of the blade. This orientation means that the angle at which you grind the blade’s bevel helps determine the effective cutting angle. The bedding angle, when added to the grinding angle of the blade, gives you the effective cutting angle. Therefore, with a 25° blade bevel in a regular-angle block plane (using a 20° bedding angle), we have a 45° cutting angle, just like in a No. 4 smoother. However, put the same blade in a low-angle block plane with a 12° bedding angle and we have a plane cutting at 37°, which is suitable for end-grain work. Grind the blade to a 30° bevel and put it in a regular-angle block plane to achieve a 50° cutting angle, suitable for long-grain in more difficult timbers.

How to Use a Hand Plane | Grip and Stance

Your grip, stance and body motions combine to make planing wood a whole body experience.

More often than not it is understanding the small details that lead to success when mastering a woodworking technique. While a hand plane must be sharp and properly adjusted to work correctly, how a woodworker grips and stands while using the plane is important as well.

The Hand Grips
The right hand grips the rear handle. It applies downward pressure and transmits the push that comes from your legs and body. The right thumb comes around and virtually traps the second finger. The right index finger doesn’t wrap around the blade assembly; it tucks down into the casting of the frog. This grip creates a lot of control tension between the index and little fingers. If you wrap your index finger around the blade assembly, sooner or later you will move it.

The proper hand grip demonstrated for a bench plane.

The left hand grip varies according to whether you are planing a face or an edge. On a wide board, press down on the top of the front knob with the palm of the hand and curl two fingers under it to the left and right. This grip helps you exert a lot of downward pressure, along with the pull that steers the cutting action.

The plane gets its power from your legs and feet. You can plane about 5 feet of wood without having to travel.

To plane an edge, hold the plane in a pincer-like grip. The thumb goes just forward of the mouth, with all four fingers wrapping under the sole. This grip helps you sense horizontal pressure while you apply downward pressure, and so it gives you more control and balance on a narrow edge.

Begin the stroke with all your weight on your rear foot.

Stance and Motion
The plane gets its power from your feet, which should be placed a comfortable walking pace apart. Keep your wrist, lower arm and upper arm in one line, and direct the push from your shoulder. As the cut proceeds, shift your weight from your rear foot forward, and unwind until your body has rolled over your ankles. Your more powerful lower body thus will propel the plane about 42 inches. Continue the cut by unfolding your upper body and arms, to push onward another 18 inches, more or less. This 60 inches is about the limit you can cut without traveling or walking the plane. To plane a long board you have to travel in a smooth and unhurried way. Slide your rear foot up to the front foot, then slide your front foot forward. Don’t try to cross your feet.

As you plane, transfer your weight as you propel the plane forward.To complete the stroke, unfold your arms to their maximum extension. Note that the feet remain a pace apart and do not move.

How to Use a hand held power planer « Tools & Equipment :: WonderHowTo

In these video clips you’ll learn everything you need to know about using a hand-held power planer.

Part 1 of 16 — How to Use a hand held power planer

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