How to Sandblast | Sandblast, Sandblasting, Sodablast, Sodablasting
Sandblasting is the “generic” term for abrasive blasting. This terminology resulted because sand was the first abrasive material used in a blasting process over 100 years ago. This is ironic, in that the use of actual silica sand is never recommended due to its health hazards.
Sandblasting or abrasive blasting (also referred to as media blasting) is the operation of forcibly propelling a stream of abrasive material against a surface under high pressure to smooth a rough surface, roughen a smooth surface, shape a surface, or remove surface contaminants and paints/coatings. Compressed air is typically used to propel the blasting material (often called the media). There are several variants of the process, such as soda blasting, bead blasting, and shot blasting. To keep things simple, we will mostly refer to the generic terms “sandblasting” and “sandblaster”, although most of what follows applies all of the variants mentioned above.
Also, please realize that the information given here is by no means a comprehensive guide to sandblasting. Think of it as an introduction to sandblasting for people who have never done it before, or who have an interest in finding out if sandblasting is right for doing their kind of work.
Before we go much farther, it is very important to remember that your air compressor is the most important component of your entire sandblasting system. The production rate, efficiency and cost per square foot of sandblasting are highly influenced by the volume (CFM) and pressure (PSI) of compressed air maintained through the blast nozzle of your sandblaster. We will get into more about this as we go on, but please keep this in mind.
There are two general types of sandblasters: portable and cabinet. As the name suggests, a portable blaster can be moved around a work area, or taken to a remote location, if desired. A cabinet is a fixed, enclosed unit, which is placed in a fixed location like a workshop or garage. There are two general kinds of sandblasting cabinets cabinets: siphon cabinets (sometimes referred to as suction cabinets) and direct pressure cabinets.
In general, a siphon cabinet is less expensive to purchase than a direct pressure system and has lower maintenance costs. Production rates are not as high as with a direct pressure cabinet. If you are a typical hobbyist or a business, requiring occasional use, a siphon system will usually work out just fine for you. If you are a high volume production business or an individual requiring faster production rates you may want to consider a direct pressure system.
Whether you use a siphon or a direct pressure cabinet, you will need a dust collector, which attaches to the cabinet and removes airborne dust and debris from the cabinet, giving you clear visibility inside the cabinet. You can’t get much work done if you can’t see what you are doing! There are also recycler style dust collectors available, which filter out debris and dust and recycle good media back into the cabinet.
The first step in learning how to sandblast is to determine what type of work you want to do. Based on the answer to that question, you can determine what kind of equipment you need. For example, if you want to strip paint from a surface, which is too large to fit inside a sandblasting cabinet, you will need to use a portable sandblaster. If you want to sandblast parts and pieces inside your garage or workshop, you may want to use a sandblasting cabinet.
If you are unsure of exactly what equipment would work best for your individual needs and budget, it’s best to get advice from an expert. One of the best is ACE Automotive Cleaning Equipment out of Michigan. They make high quality, affordable sandblasting equipment of all kinds, and have years of experience in helping people with their sandblasting and soda blasting needs.
Once you have determined the general type of sandblasting equipment that is best for your needs, it is very important to determine the best type of blasting material (media blasting) for the specific kind of work you want to do. You also need to determine the best grit size to use for your job. Do you want to clean up heavily rusted metal, or do you want to strip the finish from a wooden chair? Do you want to remove bottom paint from a fiberglass boat without harming the gelcoat, or do you want to etch a design in a piece of granite or glass?
There are many different types of blasting materials, each with its own pros and cons depending on the type of work you want to do. Although sandblasting is one of the generic terms for abrasive blasting or media blasting, you should never actually use any type of silica sand to sandblast! Silica sand can cause a type of lung disease called silicosis. Some of the most popular blasting materials are aluminum oxide, glass bead, silicon carbide, and baking soda (sodium bicarbonate). Aluminum oxide would be a good choice for cleaning that heavily rusted metal, but you might very well blow a hole in that fiberglass boat bottom with it. Soda blasting would be best for stripping the paint off of the fiberglass boat bottom, but would not remove that heavily pitted rust (although a mixture of 80% soda and 20% aluminum oxide would).
Here is a general application guide for abrasive materials. It is for comparative purposes only:
Blasting material normally comes in different grit sizes. The higher the grit size is numerically, the finer the particle size. The lower the grit size, the coarser the particle size. Lower grit sizes are more aggressive, in general, than higher grit sizes of the same blasting material. For example, Aluminum Oxide 60 grit is more aggressive than Aluminum Oxide 120 grit. It’s important to use the correct material in the correct grit size to properly do your work.
Again, if you aren’t sure about what blasting material to use for your type of work, get a recommendation from an expert. It will save you a lot of time, frustration, and money versus trying to guess, if you are not sure.
Getting back to air compressors, all sandblasting equipment must have the required air pressure, usually referred to as PSI (pounds per square inch) and the proper volume, usually referred to as CFM (cubic feet per minute) to operate properly.
All air compressors are rated by these factors. In the specifications for an air compressor you will see these ratings expressed as “x” cfm at “y” psi. Make sure that your air compressor can generate at least the minimum required volume of air (cfm) that your sandblaster requires, and more than the minimum cfm is generally better.
For example, if your sandblaster requires 12 cfm to operate with the nozzle size you are using, make sure that your air compressor can generate at least 12 cfm. It’s alright if it generates more than 12 cfm, but you will experience pressure drops if it can’t deliver the minimum. Keep in mind that the velocity of the abrasive material, as it leaves the blast nozzle, and the efficiency of the sandblasting process are going to be reduced by a little over 1% for every pound of pressure drop below the ideal blasting pressure. So if you are trying to blast at 100 psi, but you can only maintain 80 psi (because your compressor does not deliver enough cfm), that pressure drop will reduce the velocity and efficiency of your sandblasting process by around 20%.
Also remember that the cfm output of your air compressor will determine the size of the nozzle you can use with your sandblaster. In other words, if you have enough cfm to maintain blasting pressure with a certain nozzle size, you may or may not have enough cfm to blast with the next bigger nozzle size, without experiencing a pressure drop.
With respect to air pressure, most sandblasters have an adjustable pressure regulator, which is used to set the final blasting pressure. So if your air compressor is capable of 125 psi, for example, you could set your adjustable pressure regulator from 10 psi up to as high as 125 psi as your final blasting pressure. Here are the typical blasting pressure ranges (in psi) for some of the most popular sandblasting materials:
Aluminum Oxide 20-90 psi
Glass Beads 20-55 psi
Baking Soda 10-100 psi
Silicon Carbide 20-90 psi
Black Beauty Slag 90-110 psi
Agricultural Shells 10-40 psi
Steel Shot 20-90 psi
If you are unsure about what psi to use, just start out at a low blasting pressure on the adjustable pressure regulator and work your way up until you get the result you desire. But keep in mind that blasting at high pressure uses more material per minute and breaks the material down faster, if you are using a reusable type. So for example, if you are blasting with glass beads and getting good results at 45 psi, going up to a higher pressure will cause the glass beads to deteriorate quicker. You may get slightly more productivity, if any, but you will use up your media quicker. There is a tradeoff.
Moisture in compressed air used for sandblasting, media blasting, and soda blasting creates never ending problems. If not removed by some means, moisture will cause the blast media to become damp or wet and it will not flow out of the blaster evenly, if at all. The result is unwanted downtime.
The relative humidity in the atmosphere is the source of moisture in compressed air. That means that if you live in a high humidity area, or are blasting on a high humidity day, you may very well experience a moisture related issue. The higher the humidity, the more moisture issues you are likely to encounter.
There is no way to remove moisture once it enters your blaster. You must remove it before it enters the blaster. There are a number of different types of devices available to remove the moisture and reduce the chance of clogging. A lot depends on the size and type of air compressor you have. Whatever type of moisture control device you choose, it must be able to handle the cfm output of your compressor. For example, a moisture control device rated for 10 cfm will not be adequate for use on a 20 cfm air compressor.
You will need an air supply line to connect your air compressor to your sandblaster. In general, small Inside Diameter (I.D.) hoses, used for tools like air wrenches, should not be used for this purpose. Also, you should not use push in male/female type connectors in your setup.
Small I.D. air supply lines and male/female type quick connectors lead to pressure drops in your sandblasting system. (Some smaller blasters are equipped with male/female connectors, which are acceptable in those cases.)
An external claw type connector, commonly called a “Chicago Style”, does not restrict the air flow through a connection point.
The I.D. of the air supply line, the type of quick connector used, and the length of the air supply line all factor into potential pressure drops from the air compressor to the sandblaster.
In general, if you are going to run anything over 30 feet of air supply line, you should use at least ¾” I.D. hose. If you are uncertain about the size and length of the supply line, or type of connector to use, check with your sandblasting equipment manufacturer to determine the best air supply line setup for your particular machine.
When using any type of sandblasting equipment, operator safety is the utmost concern. When blasting in an enclosed cabinet, the operator is isolated from the actual blasting environment, which is contained inside of the cabinet. Even this type of sandblasting requires attention to safety. Most good sandblasting cabinets utilize a safety switch, which cuts off the supply of compressed air to the blast gun nozzle, when the loading door or top is open. This prevents the operator from accidentally activating the blast stream when loading or unloading the cabinet. Heavy duty gauntlet style gloves of rubber or neoprene are designed to withstand the harsh environment within a blast cabinet, protecting the operator’s hands and forearms.
When using a portable sandblaster, the operator is exposed to the blasting environment. Under these conditions, protective gear is used to keep the operator safe. Any type of sandblasting generates some sort of dust and debris. It is essential to protect yourself from breathing in this dust, regardless of the type of media used. Some sort of respirator is necessary. There are many kinds available from simple respirators to fresh air systems. Make sure you use one!
Once again, do not use silica sand under any circumstances! Exposure to the silica sand dust can cause a lung condition called silicosis, which is very serious. Don’t take any chances with your health!
When sandblasting, you can be certain that some of the media and debris will bounce back towards the operator. Therefore, you must protect your eyes! Always wear some sort of eye protection like a blast hood, face shield, or fully enclosed google, at the very least. Serious eye injury can occur, if you don’t protect your eyes.
Exposing your skin to either the direct blast stream, or the media and debris bounce back, can result in serious injury. Always make sure that you don’t expose your skin to potential injury. Wear long sleeved clothing, long pants, work gloves, and shoes or boots. In certain applications, you may even be advised to wear a full blast suit. Don’t be the person who tries to sandblast in shorts, tank top and sandals. That’s just asking for trouble.
Most portable sandblasters have a “deadman” remote control system. That means that the blast stream can only shoot out of the nozzle when the operator engages some sort of handle or trigger to start the blast stream. “Deadman” systems will automatically shut off the blast stream if the handle is dropped, or the operator take his hand off of the handle or trigger mechanism. “Deadman” systems can be as simple as a spring loaded device that physically blocks the end of the nozzle, to a remote system, which actually shuts off the blast stream at the tank. This helps protect the operator, and the surrounding area, from the hazards of a dropped or unattended blast hose wildly spraying abrasive blasting media.
Common sense is very important when sandblasting. With abrasive blasting media being propelled out of the blast nozzle at high speed and pressure, you effectively have a potential weapon in your hand. Do not ever point your blast nozzle at any living thing! Do not point your blast nozzle at anything that you could potentially damage. Your sandblaster is not a toy. Treat it with respect, and respect the environment around you.
After you have your sandblaster, air compressor, and the necessary lines and connectors, it’s time to start your work project!
If you keep the simple basics in mind, you are well on your way to successfully completing your projects. The actual act of blasting is fairly simple. After hooking up your system, do a safety check to make sure everything is in good working condition. Always replace any items that are worn out or damaged.
Now that you have made sure everything is properly connected and in good working condition, load your media, turn on your air compressor and set the pressure on the compressor itself to around 120 psi. Set the adjustable pressure regulator on the sandblaster to the desired psi. As mentioned previously, if in doubt, start at a low blasting pressure and work your way up until you are accomplishing the desired results.
If you are using a portable sandblaster, you should always keep your blast hose as straight as possible. Never operate you sandblaster with sharp curves in the blast hose or with it coiled up. This increases friction in the blast stream and can lead to premature blast hose failure.
If you are using a sandblasting cabinet, always make sure that the debris in the dust collector is emptied out on a regular basis. The filters should also be inspected and cleaned on a regular basis. Allowing debris to build up in the dust collector can lead to poor visibility in the sandblasting cabinet and premature failure of the filter(s) and dust collector motor(s).
When using a siphon style sandblasting cabinet, you should load it with 20-25 pounds of media. The pickup site in the siphon tube is located at the bottom of the cabinet. If you overload the cabinet, the weight and mass of the media will compact in the bottom of the cabinet and will not allow the media to flow freely.
As the media is reused constantly, it will degrade and the efficiency of the media, and the sandblasting process, will decrease. It is easier and more efficient to change out the media when using lesser amounts. If your abrasive blasting media gets wet or moist, it is less wasteful to discard this lesser amount.
Also, debris, cleaned from the object you are blasting, will fall through the work grate. This will mix with your media and large pieces can clog the pickup tube or blast gun. The use of a fine carbon screen, over the working deck, can catch large pieces of debris and keep your media cleaner. A fine carbon screen or small parts basket can also keep small pieces, such as screws or fasteners, from falling into the media, getting lost or clogging the pickup tube.
There are two types of direct pressure sandblasting cabinets: side mounted pressure vessel or bottom mounted pressure vessel. The side mounted version has a tank that is loaded with media. These tanks typically hold around 80-100 pounds of blasting media. Since there is no recycling of the material, the tank must be reloaded as the media is used up. Spent media will fall into the bottom of the cabinet, where it can be unloaded through some sort of spring loaded trap door. The media can be poured through a screen and reused until it breaks down too much.
Direct pressure cabinets with a bottom mounted pressure vessel will reuse the same media continuously. The top of the pressure vessel (tank) is open allowing media to fill the tank. When the operator engages the foot pedal, the top of the tank closes and the tank is pressurized. When the operator releases the foot pedal, the tank de-pressurizes and the media enters the tank. The media degrades with use, so it will be necessary to change out the old media with new media when there is a noticeable degradation of blasting efficiency.
Whether using a portable sandblaster or a cabinet sandblaster, the operator will have to experiment to find the proper distance from the nozzle to the surface being blasted. There is no hard and fast rule for the proper distance. Every job will be different. You will quickly see if you are too far away or too close for the best blasting efficiency.
Blasting technique will also vary with individual jobs, but in general, you should not blast perpendicularly straight into the surface being cleaned. The angle of approach can be anywhere from 45 to 105 degrees to the surface. This allows the abrasive media the work more efficiently. You should also move the blast stream forward across the surface being cleaned. Do not pull the blast stream backwards over an area that has already been blasted.
All jobs will be different, but in general, smooth easy strokes, with a degree of overlap, work well. Some people prefer a slight side-to-side arcing motion, like you would use washing off your driveway with a garden hose. Don’t be afraid to try different techniques, you will quickly see what works and what doesn’t for your job.
As I mentioned earlier, what you have just read is an introduction to sandblasting, a “How to Sandblast” for beginners. No matter what you do, ALWAYS take all necessary safety precautions to keep you, your environment, and other living things around you, safe from harm. Sandblasting is a great way to accomplish a large number of different stripping and cleaning projects. You can do it, so get it done!
How to Choose the Right Sandblasting Media?
Sandblasting is a process in which sand, glass beads or some other medium is shot at high speed through a machine across the surface of a hard material until it is sanded smooth. Sandblasting is often done to remove a previous finish on an item, to remove rust, or to prepare a surface to receive a new coat of paint. The kind of medium used to blast the surface depends on how difficult the removal is and how much impact the material can withstand.
1. Start with a gentle medium if you are uncertain. If you are unsure how the material will withstand sandblasting it is best to choose the gentlest medium and work your way up. Walnut shells are one of less abrasive sandblasting media you can use and are completely biodegradable, so there are no concerns about environmental impact. Corn cob is also biodegradable and will not etch the material being blasted. Pumice is the softest of all the blasting media. It is often used to remove paint from soft wood.
2. Consider glass beads as a medium. Glass beads give a soft, bright finish that is more attractive than angular media. Glass beads can be recycled up to 30 times. Crushed glass grit made from 100 percent recycled bottle glass is also available.
3. Choose plastic beads for automotive sandblasting. Plastic beads are made out of acrylic, polyester, melamine and urea. They deliver a high stripping rate without damaging or warping the underlying material.
4. Take care with cleanup if you use aluminum oxide, another gentler medium on the sandblasting palette. It is composed of small grains of aluminum oxide and is very long-lasting. The disadvantage of this medium is that you must carefully dispose of the material after it is used.
5. Use silicon carbide for toughest jobs. Silicon carbide is the hardest medium available for sandblasting. It allows for shorter blast times and lower cost overall than other media. It can be recycled more times than aluminum oxide or sand.
6. Pick steel grit or steel shot for special finishes. Though softer than aluminum oxide medium, steel grit leaves an etched surface that makes it easier for paints to adhere. Steel shot is used for peening operations to leave a smooth, polished finish. The shot can be used up to 3,000 times and produces minimal dust.
7. Try dry ice sandblasting. One of the newest methods of sandblasting is using compact dry ice pellets shot in a jet of compressed air. Dry ive is used to clean machinery, electrical installations, electromechanical equipment and other surfaces where the residue from standard sandblasting techniques would be detrimental.
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How to Sandblast Glass Tutorial
This is just another step by step tutorial on how to sandblast glass that I took awhile ago. The images were on my camera doing nothing, so I thought I would post them on here and maybe it will help someone. So here it goes:
- In the first step, I found a pattern to use. It doesn’t have to be a design specific to this hobby as some people think. It only needs to be black and white. I used my computer and cutter like I explained to you in the etching manual: glassetchingsecrets.com/info.html.
- Second, I removed the backing paper from the stencil and aligned it on the flat piece of glass. Use a squeegee to place the vinyl stencil smoothly on the glass without any air pockets. Make sure its masked off around the edges to prevent over blast.
- Third, sandblast the over the cut out areas of the stencil. I think I used about 30 pounds per square inch for the air pressure.
- After its etched evenly, peel off the stencil and masking tape.
- And here is the finished product. I know the project is simple, but please hit the Like button below or share it with someone.
If I see that people like this tutorial, I will be posting more ones with better content this spring. Lately, it has been too cold for me to sandblast outside. Also, if your new to this type of etching, you can read more about abrasive blasting glass or sand carving processes. OH, yeah- don’t forget to leave a comment!
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How to Sandblast Small Parts?
Sandblasting is one of the most effective methods of stripping dirt, rust, paint and virtually any other finish from the surface of objects. A sandblaster employs the use of compressed air to forcibly propel a stream of solid grain onto a target, which can restore almost instantaneously a surface to its bare condition. Sandblasting is also used to smooth a targeted object for a desired texture. Sandblasting is convenient but, even for small objects, it requires protective measures and detailed preparation.
1. Choose a preferred media, or fuel, for the task. The most common media for general applications is silica sand, which is high in purity and widely available. Various grades of glass bead and aluminum oxide are other adequate alternatives, but they are typically more expensive.
2. Place the object in a well-ventilated area, away from anything that could be affected by stray sand. Cover the exposed surfaces with plastic sheeting or tarp if you are unable to empty an enclosed workspace.
3. Protect yourself with eye goggles and rubber gloves before operating the sandblaster. Wear a painter’s suit with a hood to cover your body entirely; depending on the surface area of the targeted part, the media is likely to ricochet in your direction.
4. Turn the valves off on the sandblaster and fill the unit with at least 10 pounds of silica sand or other choice of media. Start the compressor and open the air line. Allow the tank to pressurize between 40 and 100 pounds per square inch (PSI).
5. Stand at least 8 to 16 inches away from the part, then begin sandblasting at a low PSI setting using short bursts. Gradually increase the pressure until you’ve obtained the desired results.
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Sandblasters, sand blasting equipments
Portable sand blaster is easy operation and easy work, it’s your helpful sand blasting tool, widely used for car, automotive, ship building/repairing, steel-structured bridge/railway/container/petrol chemical facility, etc.
FENG Sandblast cabinet is portable and light weight, Low abrasives consumption, high sandblasting efficiency, applicable for blasting small/medium-sized work piece, high hardness work piece,like motor parts, valve parts, heat treatment parts, etc.
Pressure/Suction Feed Sandblaster
The pressure/suction feed sandblast equipment is high efficiency but low energy consumption, suitable for sandblasting heavy work pieces, like all kinds of moulds, stone carving art wares, casting items, motor processing, etc.
Automatic Sandblast Equipment
Automatic sandblaster equipment features Automatic Transmission, not hand-held, and low abrasive consumption, applicable for pretreatment of spray coating/electroplating/painting, eliminating the dirt/scratches on the surface of plate material, etc.
The wet liquid sandblasting mixed by water, No dust, environmental friendly and no harm to human body, widely used for industries like bracelet，stainless steel，refurbishing old items, mould cleaning, etc.
High Pressure Abrasive Sand Blaster
High pressure abrasive sandblasting machine,applicable for pretreatment of electroplate for pipeline, metal work piece, removing oxide skin, derusting, refurbishing old items, etc.
Dust-free/Dustless Sandblast Machine
Dust-free/Dustless sandblasters machine, suitable for occasions with high environmental protection standard but without dust removal equipment, the dustless equipment is good for your health during the blasting jobs.
Pipeline sandblaster is commonly used as a supporting tool for other bigger sandblasting equipments to clean the inner wall of pipeline and it could be operated manually or automatically.
The big sandblast room is designed for big blasting piece, large casting/forging work piece, welding steel structure, etc. It has the high sandblasting capacity, abrasives recycling and environmental friendly
Our shot blaster has stable performance and good cleaning effect, applicable for cleaning and reinforcing the surface of afraid-of-impact work pieces, like casting items, heat treatment items, etc.
Different kinds of sandblasting gun / hose / nozzle for your option, easy replacement and fast changing, good quality, applicable for matching different brands like clemco, norton, concractor, etc.
Various size sandblast hose with 25mm*40mm, 32*48mm, etc in 10m, 20m, 40m length, wire or fibre braided, used for replacement or extending length, with durable outer casing, applicable for matching all kinds of sandblast guns. Also all kinds of hose couplings for replacement.
The abrasive sand including brown corundum, glass bead, plastic sand, steel shot, silicon carbide, soda sand etc. All these abrasive sand are applicable for derusting, removing paint and black, pretreatment of electroplating and paint spraying, etc.
Necessary protection equipments (sandblast cloth,gloves, helmet, filter etc) to ensure personal security while doing the sandblasting job, including protective clothing, protective gloves, double layer helmet, resuscitator, etc.
Airless Painting Equipments
Airless painting equipment/sprayer for all kinds of painting job after the pretreatment by sandblaster/sandblasting machine.
Sandblasting Wine Bottles | How to Sandblast Glass Bottles
It seems like sandblasting wine bottles is a popular topic that people have been looking for so I figured I would create this quick guide on how to sandblast wine bottles. I included a bonus in the sandblaster plans manual which also talks about this. Its actually very easy to do and the hardest part is cutting out the stencil.
First, you need to grab a wine bottle that you want to sandblast and peel off the paper label with a knife. Some labels are hard to get off. One way to make it easier to remove is to soak the bottle in warm soapy water so that it softens up. This makes the adhesive and paper label easier to shave off as seen below:
Second, you need to make sure the surface of the wine bottle is clean. I like to use rubbing alcohol to remove any excess glue residue and any oils from your hands. This ensures the surface is clean. Now you can start on the stenciling process.
Third, start by drawing or transferring a black and white pattern onto a sheet of sandblasting stencil material such as vinyl or contact paper. If you use contact paper, you will need to use light blasting pressures and a fine abrasive grit so that the sandblasting media doesn’t penetrate through to the glass in areas you don’t want it to.
The stencil design can be pre-cut first or cut after the stencil sheet is placed on the bottle. I found that it is usually easier to place the stencil sheet on the bottle first and then cut out the design, but it depends on the process. In this case, I pre-cut the stencil as you can see below. I simply cut out the design by following the lines with a sharp knife such as a hobby knife or razor blade. Once cut, you can pull the areas that will be etched with the sandblaster in the following steps.
For the fourth step, align the stencil onto the bottle and smooth it with something flat. You can use a plastic putty knife or a vinyl material applicator. Also, mask off the outside of the stencil with a strong tape. If you use regular masking tape, you might want to double or triple it up so that the abrasive doesn’t go through.
Once your all set and ready, all you need to do is sandblast a few inches away at a desired PSI until the wine glass bottle is etched to a desired depth as shown below. The higher the PSI, the quicker and deeper the sandblaster will etch into the glass but 30 PSI should do just fine for most folks. I used my homemade variable pressure nozzle which was explained in the member’s area here.
After the wine bottle is sandblasted to a desired depth, remove as much of the stencil off with your fingers or use a knife to peel off. Then, rinse the bottle off with water.
I hope this helped and please hit the facebook like button below if you did. Also leave a comment and if you have any questions leave them below. Thanks
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How to Sand Blast Concrete right？
Sandblasting is one of the most efficient methods of cleaning stone, metal, wood and other solid surfaces. It employs the use of compressed air to project sand and alternative granules at a target. This removes dirt, grime and all finishes almost instantaneously. A sandblaster has the ability to restore a surface to its original bare condition with minimal effort. Although convenient, treating concrete with a sandblaster requires detailed preparation and protective measures.
Instructions for sand blasting concrete right as below:
1. Clear the area of anything that could be affected by stray sand. Cover any exposed surfaces surrounding the concrete with plastic sheeting or tarp if you want to keep them clean.
2. Thoroughly ventilate the area if sandblasting concrete in limited workspace, such as a garage. Wear safety goggles and a painter’s suit equipped with a hood. Put on a respirator before sandblasting in order to avoid inhaling dust particles from the sand and dirt.
3. Shut off the valves on the sandblaster and fill the tank with silica sand. Turn on the compressor and allow it to pressurize between 40 to 100 pounds per square inch (PSI). Set the sandblaster on a low pressure setting initially.
4. Point the nozzle of the sandblaster at the concrete, at least 8 to 16 inches away from your body. Squeeze the trigger and sandblast the surface top to bottom for even coverage.
5. Gradually increase the pressure setting until the concrete is free of dirt or residue, or until you’ve reached the desired results. Use short bursts of sand for particularly difficult areas, and sweeping motions for the rest of the surface.
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