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How to Hang a Door in a Hallway | Home Guides

A hallway door provides privacy and noise control.

Hallways are busy places, serving as the highways through your home. Most rooms leading off from the hall typically have doors to allow you to shut out the hustle, bustle and noise, to create a private haven behind the door. Sometimes, a door is removed and never replaced, leaving you to hang a new one. Or perhaps you want to hang a door at the entrance to the hall, to allow you to further compartmentalize areas of your home. Hanging a door requires basic tools and an eye for detail. Frame the opening of your hallway to hang a door where one has never been before.

Framing a New Doorway

Find the studs running through the walls surrounding the desired door location. Repeat to find the ceiling joists, whether they run parallel or perpendicular to the opening. Use a stud finder or tap on the surface to listen and feel for a hollow, rather than empty, sound and sensation. Verify with a finishing nail. Mark the stud and joist positions lightly.

Measure the opening height on either side and again in the middle. Find the width at the top, bottom and in the center. Use the smallest of each measurement.

Lay out a basic wall, within which you will frame the doorway. Cut two, two-by-four plates, one for the top and one for the bottom of the wall, to the opening width measurement. Place the plates side by side and extend a straightedge across both. Center the door opening first, add 1/2 inch to either side, 1 inch total, and mark with lines extending across both plates. Most interior doors are from 28 inches to 32 inches in width, but you must allow a minimum of 6 inches on either side to accommodate the door framing.

Draw another line 1 1/2 inches from the door opening marks on the plates, working toward either end. Mark again at another 1 1/2 inches. Make another set of lines 1 1/2 inches from either end. These lines show the door opening, centered in the wall opening, the jack studs on either side of the doorway, the king studs that are flush against the jack studs, and the wall end studs, flush with the plate ends.

Subtract 3 1/4 inches from the opening height. Cut four studs to match. Nail between the plates, aligned with the end stud and king stud markings. Cut two more boards to the height of the prehung door’s frame size plus 1/4 inch. Fit these jack studs tight against the king studs and nail securely. Cut a final board to fit between the king studs. Rest it — a header — on top of the jack studs and nail to the jacks and kings both. Nail a couple of short boards between the header and top plate.

Tilt the wall section up into the opening. Nail through the wall into the framing surrounding the wall. Drive additional nails through the bottom plate into the floor everywhere except in the doorway opening. Cut the bottom plate flush with the jack studs and remove to open the doorway.

Hanging the Door

Remove the blocks that prevent the door from opening during shipping. Slide the bottom into place in the doorway, then tip the top up into position. Center the door to maintain an even gap surrounding it. Drive shims into the space above the door, between the top jamb and the header, to hold it in place.

Look at the hinge-side of the door to see if the gap remains consistent, as it should in a square frame. Hold a long level against the jamb and check for plumb — straight up and down. Insert shims along the height, particularly behind the hinges where the stress will be greatest during use. As you place the shims, keep checking for and maintaining plumb.

Nail the hinge-side jamb to the jack stud with 10d finishing nails wherever a shim is present. Continue checking for plumb to ensure accuracy. Allow the nail to stick up slightly in case you need to adjust the door later.

Shim and nail the opposite side of the doorjamb similarly. Move to the top of the door last. Constantly check for plumb on the sides and level at the top as you work. Once the door is attached and you have verified it is accurate, sink the nails underneath the surface.

Add the doorknob and strike plate to allow the door to open. Use the enclosed screws and follow the product instructions.

Things You Will Need
  • Stud finder
  • Hammer
  • 16d nails
  • 8d finishing nails
  • Tape measure
  • Straightedge
  • Long level
  • Two-by-four boards
  • Shims
  • Construction adhesive
  • Doorknob
  • Strike plate
  • Wall sheathing
  • Wood trim
Tips
  • If the hallway is carpeted, remove a strip wide enough to install the door framing as necessary.
  • By definition, any opening is framed by vertical studs so finding the studs under the wall surface shouldn’t be a problem. However, the joists may be more difficult. Installing blocking — which requires accessing the joists from above or below and installing short blocks nailed between the studs — is one option. If the wall is secured to the adjoining walls and floor, you can get away without nailing to the joist in most cases. Use construction adhesive along the top instead.
  • Install wall sheathing and door trim — called casing — to finish the door installation.
About the Author

Karie Fay earned a Bachelor of Science in psychology with a minor in law from the University of Arkansas at Monticello. After growing up in construction and with more than 30 years in the field, she believes a girl can swing a hammer with the best of them. She enjoys «green» or innovative solutions and unusual construction.

Photo Credits
  • Photodisc/Photodisc/Getty Images

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How to Install a Door for wood doors and assembled pre-hung doors

Buying the right interior doors.

Buying doors in the proper state of readiness is the most important step of interior door installation.

Step A
Determine what state of readiness you would like your doors to be in before ordering.

The first step in an interior wood door installation project is to determine what state of readiness you want your wood doors to be in. This important step will determine how difficult your door installation will be. Wood doors can be ordered a number of different ways. Wood doors are available as assembled prehung doors, partially assembled pre-hung doors, knocked down pre hung doors, un-machined slabs, fully machined slabs or partially machined slabs. They are also available as unfinished or pre-finished doors.

The vast majority of doors sold today are sold as assembled/pre-hung unfinished. This may not be your best choice however. You will have to determine what state of completion you should buy your doors in based on what phases of door hanging and finishing you would like to complete yourself, what tools you have available, how you would like to apply the finish and whether your doors are going into new construction or into existing jambs.

Assembled/ pre-hung doors come with the jambs fastened together, the door stop applied to the jambs, the hinges installed to the jambs, lock prep completed and the door beveled and hung on the hinges. Sometimes the door casing is also applied to one side of the jambs or both sides in the case of split jambs but we will not concern ourselves with split jambs or door casing at this time.

Partially assembled pre-hung doors are usually exactly like assembled/ pre-hung doors with one exception. The door stops are shipped loose instead of applied.

Knocked down pre- hung doors means all of the machining and prep work has been done on the doors and the jambs just as with assembled prehung doors but the jambs are not fastened together, the hinges are not installed to the jambs, the door stop is not applied to the jambs and the doors are not hung on the hinges. It usually takes about 5 to 10 minutes to put together a knocked down door unit into an assembled pre-hung door unit ready to install in the rough opening.

Un-machined slabs are doors that do not have hinge prep, lock prep, bevel, jambs, hinges or stop.

Partially-machined slabs are doors that do not have jambs, hinges or stop but may have hinge prep, lock prep or bevel completed.

Fullymachined slabs are doors that do not have jambs, hinges or stop but do have hinge prep, lock prep and bevel.

Unfinished doors are raw wood without primer, paint, stain, sealer or varnish applied to them.

Pre-finished doors have primer, paint, stain, sealer and/or varnish already applied to them.

 


Cross section of door and jamb components installed in wall

For unfinished doors in new construction I recommended that they are knocked down/ pre-hung. For pre-finished doors in new construction I recommended that they are either knocked down/ pre-hung or partially assembled/ pre-hung.

There are several advantages to purchasing your doors with knocked down jambs. One advantage is that you do not have to disassemble the door from the jambs and hinges for painting or varnishing. Most pre-finishers prefer to spray the finish on the doors while they are on a flat surface and not attached to the jambs. Another advantage is that you can apply the stain and finish behind where the door stop will be applied, something you can’t do if the door stop is already fastened to the door jambs. If some adjustment needs to be made on the door stop you will not have a bare spot where there is no finish. Another advantage to having the door stop shipped loose is that you can drill and countersink holes behind the door stop to accept wood screws. Wood screws behind the door stop (see illustration above) is by far the superior method of installing the door jambs to the studs. Another advantage to knocked down jambs is that the doors are much easier to unload and carry into the house.

The 2 advantages to having your pre-hung doors assembled is that you can install them in the rough openings immediately upon arrival to the jobsite and you save about 5 to 10 minutes assembly time per door. One big disadvantage to buying your doors assembled is that the pre-hung door units can be very heavy and bulky and much harder to carry into the house without damaging something. The other big disadvantage is that if you hang your doors before finishing them you will either have to finish them in place, which is not recommended, or you will have to take them off the hinges to apply the finish then re-hang them. You will also have to finish the jambs in place.

If you really want your doors assembled/ pre-hung when they arrive on the jobsite I would recommend purchasing them pre-finished with loose stop.

Interior door installation and preparation

If you have purchased your doors pre-hung but un-finished you need to decide if you want to apply the finish (paint or varnish) to your doors, jambs and stop before hanging them or hang them in the openings and apply the finish at a later date. Pre-finishing is usually the best unless you are hiring a professional painter to come in and do them on the jobsite in which case you should take their recommendation.

If you have purchased your doors knocked down/ pre-hung the next step after pre-finishing would be to drill and countersink the holes in the jambs for the wood or drywall screws. These holes should be directly behind where the center of the door stop will be. Spacing for these holes is optional. I usually put a screw 4″ down from the top of the jamb and 4″ up from the bottom and about 12″ apart. One screw is usually enough for the head jamb up to 36″ wide.

Step B
Floor clearance

Determine if you need to shorten the bottom of your side jambs. Usually the jambs extend 1″ past the bottom of the door. This gives you approximately 1″ of floor clearance. If you do not want this much floor clearance you will have to shorten your side jambs accordingly. If carpet is being installed on both sides of the door and you need more than 1″ clearance under your door you can raise the jambs off the floor as long as you have enough height in your rough opening. If you do not have enough rough opening height to do this you will probably have to trim the bottom of the door off after it is hung.

If a vinyl, tile or hardwood floor is on either side of the door you will need to make sure your jambs extend all the way down to the finished floor. If the finished flooring is already installed you will just set the jamb directly on the finished floor. If you are hanging the door before the finished floor is installed you can either block up the jambs the same thickness as the finished floor or set the jambs directly on the sub-floor and let the flooring installers trim the bottom of the side jambs in place. Once again make adjustments to the jamb length based on what you want your bottom door clearance to be. Don’t forget to allow for throw rugs.

After trimming the bottom of the jambs (if needed) it is now time to assemble the jambs. Make sure you put the proper door with the proper jambs. Check the swing of the door either right hand or left hand. Also
make sure the jambs are the proper handing and the proper width for the opening. Check the length of the head jamb to make sure it is exactly the right length before assembling the jambs. If you have an air gun you can staple the side jambs to the head jamb using 1-1/2″ or longer staples. If you do not have an air gun you can hand nail or screw the side jambs to the head jamb using 8d nails, drywall screws or wood screws.

Once the jambs are fastened together it is now time to install the hinges. Take the hinge pins out of the hinges so that the 2 halves of each hinge are separated. Install the corresponding hinge halves one to the door and one to the mating jamb. After all hinges are installed you are now ready to put the jamb unit in the rough opening. Make sure you have the jamb in the opening the proper direction. Before actually hanging the door to the jamb I usually like to secure the hinge side jamb to the stud. Using wood shims and a level make sure it is plumb and straight. Now you can hang the door to the jamb. Close the door as far as you can and hold the level vertically on the leading edge of the door to check it for plumb. If your jamb is perfectly plumb your door should also be perfectly plumb. If you need to make some adjustments simply back off the screws to adjust your shims. Don’t cut your shims off until both jambs are secured and fitted exactly the way you want them.
After your door is lined up with the jamb exactly the way you want it and all of the jamb screws are installed to hold the jamb in place you can now cut off your shims flush with the wall using a utility knife. The door stop can now be installed.

Step E
Installing the door stop
To install the door stop accurately the locksets should be installed first. After the locksets are installed you are now ready to install the door stop. Measure the distance from the floor to the head jamb on both the hinge side and the lock side of the jamb. These measurements should be the same but they could vary slightly. Cut a 45 degree miter on one end of each piece of the door stop legs to the proper length. Install the lock side door stop first. With the door latched in the closed position hold the corresponding door stop against the door on the lock side making sure the door is positioned so the latch is tight to the door stop and the stop is pushed up tight to the head jamb. Using an air finish nailer, nail the stop to the jamb. Or nail it by hand using 4 penny finish nails. Repeat the process to install the hinge side door stop but make sure you leave about a credit card clearance between the stop and the door. If the hinge side stop is nailed up tight against the door it could interfere with the door closing. After both side stops are nailed in place measure the head stop and cut a 45 degree miter on both ends. The head stop should be cut tight enough so that you have to bow it down slightly to snap it into place. This will ensure a tight fit. Nail in the head stop and your door jambs are now ready for door casing.

Prepping your own door slabs for existing jambs

Occasionally some home owners want to replace their doors but don’t want to replace their jambs or door casing. This means you will have to have the company you purchase your doors from do all or part of the prep work or you will need some degree of skill and equipment to do the prep work yourself. There are basically 3 operations that need to be completed to a door slab to prepare it for hanging in an existing jamb. The door slab needs to be beveled, mortised for hinges and prepped for the lockset.

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How to Hang a Double Door on a Storage Shed | Home Guides

Double doors on a storage shed allow items wider than 36 inches to be moved in and out of the shed.

Double doors on a shed allow items larger than the width of a single door to be stored within the shed. This is particularly handy when items such as a garden tractor or wheelbarrow need to be stored in the building. With a set of double shed doors, one half of the double door is used for regular entry, but when wider access is needed, the second half of the door is unlocked from the frame and opened.

Check the door jambs and header for plumb and level with a carpenter’s level. Measure the height and width of the door opening with a tape measure. Add 2 inches to the height measurement and 1 inch to the width measurement. Build or order the two 1 1/2 inch thick doors, each sized to the height measurement by one-half of the width measurement.

Add 9 inches to the width of the rough opening, and cut a piece of two-by-four lumber at this length using a circular saw. Hold the board 1 1/4 inches above the center of the opening, and adjust the board with a carpenter’s level so that it is level across the opening. Attach the board to the header framing with 16d galvanized framing nails using a hammer.

Add 1/4 inch to the height of the doors, and cut a pair of two-by-fours to this length to serve as side trim boards. Align the outside edge of one of the trim boards with the end of the header trim, adjust the position with the level so that the board is plumb, and attach it to the frame with 16d galvanized nails. Repeat with the trim board on the opposite side of the frame.

Cut a scrap piece of lumber into eight 1/4-inch thick spacers. Hold one of the two doors against the frame, and insert a spacer high and low between the hinge side of the door and the trim, as well as a spacer along the top left and top right corners of the door against the bottom of the header trim. Position scrap lumber beneath the door to hold it in position, keeping the shims in place for an equal 1/4-inch reveal along the side and top of the door. Repeat with the other door in similar fashion, but ignore the gap between the doors for the time being.

Measure down 12 inches from the top of one door along the hinge side of the door. Position a barn or shed hinge across the door trim and the door with the knuckle centered over the 1/4-inch reveal. Attach the hinge to the door with 1 1/2 inch wood screws and to the door trim with 3-inch wood screws (to connect into the framing as well as the trim). Attach a second hinge 12 inches from the bottom and one in the center to match. Connect the three hinges on the opposite door in like manner.

Remove the shims and test the operation of the doors. Open both doors freely, and check to see that the reveal remains a constant 1/4 inch around the sides and top of both doors.

Cut a length of one-by-two lumber equal to the height of the doors. Apply this board to the latch side of the outer edge of the door you wish to serve as the primary entrance door. Overlap the gap between the two doors, extending at least 1/4 inch over the second door to provide a lip to protect against weather intrusions to the shed. Attach the board to the edge of the main door with 1 1/2 inch screws.

Mount a sliding lock to the top and bottom of the inside of the secondary door, 1 inch in from the center. Drill a 1/4-inch hole in the header and floor to accommodate the sliding lock. Slide each sliding lock into the holes to verify that the secondary door will stay closed tightly while the primary door opens and closes.

Attach a hasp or door lock of your choice to the primary door to secure it to the secondary door when the primary door is closed.

Things You Will Need
  • Carpenter’s level
  • Tape measure
  • Double shed doors, 1 1/2 inches thick
  • Two-by-four lumber
  • 16d galvanized nails
  • Hammer
  • Six heavy-duty barn or shed hinges
  • 1 1/2 inch wood screws
  • 3-inch wood screws
  • One-by-two lumber
  • Two sliding locks
  • 1/4-inch drill bit
  • Door lock or hasp
Tip
  • The trim boards are installed inset from the header and sides of the frame so that the doors actually overlap the siding of the shed when closed. This overlap prevents weather from getting in through the top or hinge sides of the doors.
Warning
  • When working with power tools, wear safety glasses to protect your eyes from flying debris.
About the Author

Chris Baylor has been writing about various topics, focusing primarily on woodworking, since 2006. You can see his work in publications such as «Consumer’s Digest,» where he wrote the 2009 Best Buys for Power Tools and the 2013 Best Buys for Pressure Washers.

Photo Credits
  • Thinkstock Images/Comstock/Getty Images

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How To Hang A Door

Hang the door on the bedside table or cabinet is not difficult. It is not necessary to call the master. Half an hour of free time, a little patience, a sheet of plywood — and your old bedside get a second life, and you — the satisfaction of the work done.

You will need:

drill, finishing nails measuring 1.5 inches, hammer, nail, nail brush, overhead loops, marking tape, screwdriver, hardware, screws, tape measure, finishing plywood 0.5 inches thick

Instruction how to hang a door

Step 1:

Measure the height and width of the opening by means of roulette.

Step 2:

Cut from a sheet of plywood doors finishing. If the gap is already 60 cm, you can install one door. If more — you need two. In this case, the height of each opening of the door should match the height and the width should be equal to half the total opening width minus 1.3 cm.

Step 3:

Measure and cut the profiles for edging of each door. Make a 45 degree bevel at the corners.

Step 4:

Drill with a drill, the holes in the future doors.

Step 5:

Attach profiles edging to the doors using finishing nails. To this end, hammer nails into the door through the edge profile.

Step 6:

Cover varnish doors.

Step 7:

Allow varnish to dry.

Step 8:

Install two countersunk overhead loop on the back side of each door.

Step 9:

Stick to the right side of the frame striper adhesive Lena, 1.3 cm above the opening.

Step 10:

Attach the door to the opening and level, focusing on the road marking tape.

Step 11:

Note the position of the upper hinge to the frame by means of marking tapes.

Step 12:

Open loop. Attach the door so that the loop was in place previously marked.

Step 13:

Drill the holes and fix the loop on the front of the frame with screws.

Step 14:

Remove the road marking tape.

15

Attach the hardware (door handles, latches).

16

If you want to install the hinged door, the hinges should be attached to the bottom of the front frame. On both sides of the opening secure holders that will hold the door when opened. Place furniture clamps that hold the door in the closed position.

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How to Hang an Unassembled Door and Jamb

How to install an unassebled door and jamb in a door opening.

For most home owners installing a pre-hung is the best solution for many door replacement projects, but there are instances when an unassembled door is a better option. Unassembled doors, also called “knock-down” or KD doors, cost less than pre-hung doors and are easier to handle. There are also more options available with unassembled doors as you can special order the wood for the jamb and the door to match the design of your home. Unassembled doors can come with the latch and hinges mortised, or they can be entirely blank to allow you to match the hinge placement of existing doors. You need some decent carpentry skills to come out with a finished project that looks good and will last for years.


Other factors may lead you to purchase an unassembled door such as the door height, flooring material, wall thickness, and the style of the door slab and jamb.


Typical Door Framing

Tools and Materials:

Hammer

4-foot Level

Drill/Driver

Tape Measure

¾-inch Chisel

Phillips-head screwdriver

Utility knife

Combination Square

Flat pry bar

Shims

Wood Glue

Door slab

Hinges

Lockset

Door Stop

Jamb

Finish nails, 4d and 8d

Instructions

1. Check the opening

Place a 4-foot level on the floor in the doorway. If the hinge side is lower than the latch side, slip shims under the level nearest the hinge jamb. Adjust the shims until the level’s bubble is centered.

Tack the shims to the floor with a finish nail. If the latch side is lower, no shims are needed.

Check the walls and the trimmer studs for plumb using a level or plumb bob. Also, check the trimmers’ faces with a framing square to see if they are square to the wall.

Finally, check that the trimmers are parallel by measuring between them at the top, bottom, and middle of the opening. If the wall is out of plumb, or the trimmers are out of plumb, out of square, or not parallel.

2. Shim the Trimmers

On the hinge jamb, measure from the bottom of the jamb to the center of each hinge. Mark the hinge locations on the hinge-side trimmer by measuring up from the floor (or top of the shims).

Tack the plumb bob to the top of the hinge-side trimmer, and measure the gap between the string and the trimmer at each hinge location. Where the gap is the smallest, place overlapping shims.

Adjust the shims to 1/8 inch thick, and tack them with a finish nail. Measure the gap between the shims and the plumb bob string.

Place overlapping pairs of shims at the other two hinge locations. Adjust each pair’s thickness until the gap between shims and string equals the gap at the first pair.

Nail each pair to the trimmer and cut off the ends with a utility knife so they don’t protrude past the drywall.


3. Check the Door in the opening

Measure the distance between the shims. This distance should be between ¼ and ½ -inch larger than the width of the door and the two jambs.

4. Assemble the Door Jamb

Your KD door jambs should be routed at the top to allow the top jamb to slide in between. Typically the top jamb is cut to length for the door you are installing, but confirm this measurement by dry-fitting the pieces together and confirming the width of the assembled jamb.

Apply a bead of wood glue into the dado at the top of each jamb and slip the head jamb into place. Drill pilot holes through the backside of the jamb into the head and secure it with 8d finish nails or 2-inch drywall screws. Make sure that the edge of the head and side jambs are even.

Check the length of the jamb legs and cut them to length.

5. Anchor the jamb

Slip a pair of shims between main jamb on the latch side and the trimmer, near the top of the door opening. When they are just touching the back of the jamb without putting any pressure on it, nail them to the trimmer with 8d finish nails.

Nail additional pairs of shims a few inches above the base of this jamb, as well as just above and below the strike plate.

Tip: To adjust the height of the jamb, place a flat pry bar under the leg and slowly lever the jamb up until the head jamb is level.

6. Replace hinge screw and hang the door

On the hinge jamb, remove the center screw from the top hinge leaf and replace it with a screw that’s long enough to penetrate the trimmer. This prevents the door from sagging and binding.


Tip: If the long screws don’t match the ones that came with the hinges, install them behind the hinge leaf.

Screw the other hinge leaves into the door slab and hang the door in the jamb with the hinge pins.

Tip: Most doors have a slight bevel on the latch side, the place where the hole is drilled for the lockset. The door should close so that the short side of the bevel is closest to the door stop.

7. Install the door stop molding

The door stop is a narrow strip of wood that holds the door flush with the edge of the door jamb. Close the door so that the front edge of the door is flush with the edge of the jamb. Have someone help you to mark the location of the inside edge of the door while it is closed or measure the width of the door and mark the side and head jambs. Cut and nail the door stop into place using 4d finish nails.

Note: Some jambs will have matching door stop molding that fits into a groove in the jamb.


Tip: Set your combination square to the width of the door and transfer this distance onto the jambs.


8. Mount the latch hardware

Fasten the strike plate to the mortise in the latch jamb using the screws provided. If the plate is bigger than the mortise, put the plate on the jamb, outline it with a pencil, and chisel to the outline.

Slip the latch bolt into its bore and fasten its plate into the mortise on the door’s edge with the screws provided. If the mortise is too tight, adjust its size in the same way as you did the strike plate.

Fit the knobs to both sides of the latch bolt, then insert and tighten the connecting screws that hold the knobs together.

Close the door and listen for the latch sliding into its strike. If the door rattles, bend the prong on the strike plate slightly toward the stop. If the latch doesn’t catch, bend the prong away from the stop. Tighten all the screws.

windows-walls-doors.knoji.com

How To Hang A Door


1. Saw off lugs (the projecting ends of the stiles) at top and bottom of door.

2. Plane the butt stile to fit the side jamb. Plane to the right width of the opening at top and bottom after deducting 1/8 inch for clearance, or 1/16 inch for clearance for either side. The lock stile must be beveled a bit.

3. Plane door to fit at the top, then scribe and plane the bottom, allowing 1/16 inch for clearance at the top and 1/4 inch or more at the bottom, allowing for rugs.

4. Wedge the door in place and

mark the placement of the butt hinges on the door and the jamb at the same time using a knife.
5. Take out the door and square lines with the butt gauge for the length of the butt hinge, or gain. Gauge the width of the gain and the depth of the gain using the butt gauge. Repeat also on the jamb.
6. Chisel the gains.
7. Draw the pins from the butt hinges and screw on one leaf to the door and one to the jamb.
8. Put the door in place and slip the pins in position.
9. When the door hangs away from the jamb, the gains must be deeper. If the door binds against the jamb, place a
piece of cardboard between the butt hinge and the bottom of the gain.
10. The stop beads must then be nailed in place, leaving some clearance.


After planing the hinge stile, the top must be roughly fitted to the top jamb by planing or sawing or both. When planing down the edge of the lock stile, the cut usually is made at right angles to the face of the stile. You’ll find in the case of thick doors that it will be good to finish this edge on a slight bevel instead of precisely square with the face of the door, so that the beveled portion would readily clear the jamb when the door is opened and closed. Occasionally, locks are made with beveled faces with this same idea in mind.

The bottom of the door now is trimmed off with a saw, and here it is essential to take into account whether there would be a threshold or not. Where a threshold is used the door can be fitted relatively close, possibly so as to swing 1/8 inch over the threshold. Where thresholds are not used, it typically is needed to cut the door short so as to clear the floor by 1/4 to 1/2 inch so that, whenever rugs are used on the floor, the door will swing clear of them.

tipwriter.expertscolumn.com

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