How To Dip Candy and Truffles Video Tutorial
January 29, 2014
This post may contain affiliate links. For more information, read my disclosure policy.
Dipping doesn’t have to be hard. With a few easy steps you can learn how to dip candy and truffles…without crying!
So, I made you all a video. I know, right? #scary #dontjudgeme
I’ve been wanting to do a dipping instruction for awhile. Text explanations can be confusing, photos are great, but videos are better, and after I got some comments on Instagram when I posted my Peanut Butter Covered Oreo Truffles the other day, I figured, why not go for it?
Hopefully, after you watch this video you’ll be able to have more confidence in your dipping skills. Really, it’s all about practice and finding out what works for you. I still end up with truffles that I think are ugly, and sometimes I surprise myself.
Down below the video I have some tips and tricks written out. Please ignore my horrible voice and all the stuff on my counters. It didn’t look like all that stuff showed until I got into editing. And, it would seem that I look to the right when I’m thinking. Enjoy!
How to Dip Truffles and Candy without crying:
The Candy Matters. As I discussed in the video, the three mainstream brands are Almond Bark (Plymouth Pantry), Wilton, and Candiquik. Candiquik is my favorite, but Wilton is great for color, and the Almond Bark is great if you’re on a tight budget.
If you have an electric griddle, use it to keep the candy warm. If you don’t have one, that’s okay. Go shopping.
I’m kidding! No griddle? Use the double boiler method. Heat about 1-2″ of water in a pot and place your candy in a bowl that fits snug on top the pan, but that doesn’t touch the water. Just keep the heat on low once the candy melts, stirring occasionally so it doesn’t seize. Or, you know, use an actual double boiler, if you have one.
If you’re using a griddle, melt your candy in real Tupperware. Glass can get too hot, those disposable plastic containers can be too flimsy. I like good, old-fashioned Tupperware.
And speaking of melting candy, know that it can be fickle. The double boiler method is the best way to be sure it won’t seize (although it still might) but I’m a microwave girl. First, read the package directions. There are usually hints, and every brand has different ones. I usually use HIGH power (I have an 1100w microwave) except for white. For white chocolate (melts or chips) I always use half (50%) power. If your candy is older, or if it’s melted at some point and then re-hardened, it may have trouble melting. In this case you can add Crisco or vegetable oil about a teaspoon at a time (for a full package of candy or chips), stir, and continue heating for short periods of time. It can help the candy melt, but it doesn’t always work. Sometimes new candy is just what’s needed. Also, never, ever get water in the candy bowl. Water will ruin your chocolate. FYI, all these tips also apply for chocolate/white chocolate chips.
Don’t swirl. Drop your candy or truffle in the chocolate and spoon the chocolate over the top. Swirling makes the truffle break.
Use a fork to lift the truffle out of the chocolate. The excess chocolate will drip down through the tines of the fork.
Use the Bakerella Tapping Method: tap your hand not the fork. Don’t tap the fork on the bowl. Tapping your hand is lest impactive on the truffle.
Use a toothpick to help transfer the truffle from the fork to your cookie sheet for minimal “falling truffle syndrome”.
Sprinkles are a truffles best friend. They hide every imperfection. And they’re fun. Use lots of them.
Enjoy eating your hard work. Then practice some more!
Now, pops are another thing entirely. A lot of these tips will work with pops, but I can’t give you any specific tips. My pops end up falling apart 99% of the time. For pop tips, check out the video my friend Karyn made at Pint Sized Baker.
Some truffles and candy you can make now that you know how to dip:
Peanut Butter Covered Oreo Truffles
Mexican Chocolate Truffles
Maple Walnut Truffles
Peanut Butter Oatmeal Cookie Dough Truffles
Copycat Butterscotch Squares
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posted by Dorothy Kern on January 29, 2014
How to Hydro Dip Tutorial |
So about a year ago I uploaded a “How to Swirl Paint” video on to YouTube. I received a really good response from that video and it was really cool to see all of your DIY projects using the swirl paint method.
Well since that video, a new ‘painting’ technique as been gaining in popularity. That technique is known as ‘hydro dipping‘.
Similar to swirl painting, hydro dip uses water to transfer an image onto your object. But unlike swirl painting where a random paint pattern is transferred, hydro dipping allows you to transfer a very high quality graphic on to your object.
There are a ton of different patterns and designs (eBay) to choose from. I can’t even begin to name them all but in this video I have 3 examples to show you. I will be using a sticker bomb design, and wood grain film, and a carbon fiber pattern.
I’ve been having a lot of fun messing around with hydro dip. Of course as always, I will show you how to do it.
I did decided to purchase a complete DIY Hydro Dip Kit for my first attempts at hydro dipping. However if you are looking to get these supplies individually, I will list all the necessary supplies below.
The first thing that you will need to do is prep your object for the primer and base coat. You will need to wash and degrease your object before spraying.
Its also a good idea to rough of the surface as well for better adhesion. What I used was just a scrub pad and some dish soap.
Give your object a good scrubbing and lay it out to air dry.
Oh and if there are any areas that you do not want to hydro dip, its a good time to start masking these areas off with painter’s tape.
Spraying Primer and Base Coat:
When spraying the primer and base coat, you will want to go over your object with light even coats. Avoid heavy sprays because this will cause runs in the paint which will eventually show through in your final finish.
Start with the primer and mist it onto your object. Do this multiple times with a few minutes in between coats until you are satisfied with the coverage.
You will want to repeat these steps with the color base coat as well.
In this video, I used both black (that came with the kit) and white base coat. I have found that good quality automotive base coat provides great results.
The color of base coat you choose will affect the final outcome of your hydro dip. Some films are transparent and you can achieve several different looks just by switch base coat colors.
Films that are not transparent can also be customized with different base coat colors. Depending on the film and base coat you choose, your end result may end up with different shades of colors and darkness of graphics.
Experiment with different base coat colors and find a look that you are after.
Since hydro dipping requires water to transfer the image onto your object, you will need to prepare a container that is large enough to submerge your object.
I just used a basic storage container that I had lying around as my dip container.
You will want to fill this container up with water while leaving about an inch or so of room from the top. This is to avoid spilling water over the edges as you dunk your object under water.
A recommended item to have is a fish tank heater. This is used to heat up your water to the ideal temperature for hydro dipping. Follow the heaters manufacturer’s instructions to set your temperature but the best temperature for hydro dip is to be between 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit.
Once your dip container is filled and heated to the ideal temperature, we can finally start working with the hydro dip film.
Working with the Film:
When cutting the film (eBay), you want to make sure that the piece you cut is largest enough to cover the entire surface area of your object.
You also want to make sure that the film has the ability to expand about an inch on each side. So if you happen have too large of a container, you can always make a border inside the container with some painter’s tape.
Creating this border will prevent the film from expanding too much. The image quality of the film (eBay) can be distorted if it is allowed to expand too much.
It’s also a really good idea to create a border around the film with painter’s tape. Creating this border will make the film more rigid and easier to handle. Just make sure that you cut slits in the tape on all the sides and corners so that the film still has the ability to spread out.
Alright its almost time to hydro dip! Grab your activator and start shaking it up!
Start Hydro Dipping:
Laying the Film
Start by holding your hydro dip film (eBay) by it’s corners. Then slowly lay it on top of the water. You want to slowly lay it down starting from the middle and moving outwards.
Doing it this way will reduce the odds of creating bubbles underneath the film as well as prevent water from getting on top of the film.
VERY IMPORTANT: Depending on the type of film you use, typically the shiny side of the film goes down into the water.
I do have a simple trick if you are having a difficult time figuring out which side is which.
You can spray some activator onto a paper towel and wipe it on the film. If the film DOESN’T wipe off, that side goes down into the water. If the film DOES wipe off, then that is the side that stays on top.
Remember its very important to place your film correctly in the water.
Once the film is properly placed in the water, you will want to leave it there and let it soak and hydrate for about 60 seconds. You should start to see the film retain water. Any wrinkles in the film should start to disappear.
You can then move onto spraying the activator after about 60 seconds of hydration.
Spray the activator with light even strokes. Its recommended to spray it in a hatch pattern. This should ensure even coverage of the activator.
Do not over spray the activator, light even strokes is key!
The activator will instantly liquidfy your film and should start expanding. After about 15 to 20 seconds, the film should appear very shiny.
Hold your object at a 30 to 40 degree angle as you slowly dip it into the water.
Keep this angle constant as the object is submerged under water. This will reduce distortion in your image.
Once the object is fully in the water, swirl it around to push away the excess film.
Quickly lift your object out of the water and stare at the beauty you created with hydro dip.
Rinse Away Residue
You are not done just yet!
The activator will leave behind a sticky residue from the adhesive. This residue will need to be rinsed off immediately after dipping.
Take your object and run it through hot or warm water. Using hot or warm water is best, but if you have to you can use cold water.
If no residue is left over, your hydro dipped object should appear very dull. Any shiny areas means there is residue left and will need to be washed off.
Protecting Your Hydro Dip:
There is one final step after letting your object fully dry and that step is to protect the image.
You do this by spraying clear coat over your object. The clear coat that came with my kit has a high gloss finish but I’ve also had really good results with automotive clear coat.
Take your time spraying the clear coat. You will want to spray light even coats just like you did with the primer and base coat.
That’s it! You’re done!
As you can tell this project turned out great! It was actually pretty easy to do too.
Hydro dipping is a great option for those of you who like to customize your projects. Best part is that you can basically hydro dip anything, as long as it can be submerged under water.
Personally, I have many projects that comes to mind that can be customized with hydro dip.
Hopefully this tutorial has helped and I am excited to see all of your hydro dipping projects!
Dip Dye Hair — How to do it Right
Have you seen one of these hair styles that has bright, colorful ends? Always wondered about dip dye hair? Is it something that you want to try, but don’t want to spend a ton of money on getting it done? If your answer to that question is yes, then this article is perfect for you.
Whether you’re looking to completely dye your entire hair in a bright color that stands out, or to dip dye the ends to give your hair style something unique, you need to know how to do it properly before you take on this challenge.
Forget spending a fortune at your local hair salon. Most people underestimate their own abilities to do many of these basic hair styling tips on their own and spend half of their week’s salary just to get it done. The truth is that you can dip dye your own hair just as effectively if you follow some simple and easy steps.
Keep in mind that there are basically four parts to this process: selecting the dye, preparing the area, bleaching, and color dipping. So let’s talk about these four major steps (and all those minor in-between steps) now.
Get ready to dip dye your hair!
If you are a natural blonde, then you don’t need to worry about choosing a bleaching or highlighting kit. Otherwise, you’ll need to choose a bleaching, highlighting, or pre-lightening kit. This is prepare the hair that you’ll be dyeing so it accepts the dye.
Manic Panic is a great brand for dye hair
How To: Dip with iodine
So here’s my way of doing an iodine dip. This is a general info write-up, and won’t be targeting any specific illness. That said, it’s the same basic way I do it regardless of what I’m dipping for, or what coral I’m dipping, only thing that varies is the time I leave things in, and the concentration of the iodine.
I typically dip LPS’s and Zs&Ps depending on what’s affecting them. If I don’t know exactly what it is, the first dip I try is an iodine to perk them back up. I’ve never dipped SPS’s this way on a consistent enough basis to tell you what results you’ll get out of it for them, please feel free to add info if you have!
Probably one of the most important pieces: The Iodine! I use CVS brand Povidone-Iodine, for all purposes that I’ve found, it’s identical to Lugol’s Solution. That said, I don’t dose it to the tank, and if you choose to-blame someone else if it messes things up :angel:
Next up is the dipping container- I know a lot of people like to know exact numbers in terms of cups of water and what not, sorry, I don’t do it that way, so you’ll just have to bear with me. Oh, and the R’s stand for ‘reef’ so we know it’s been used for doing dips and may have weird chemicals (before we use it for soup when we’ve run out of dishes…)
Filled with water from the tank that the coral to be dipped came from, or is going into (if transferring to a new tank, I use the new tanks water)
Adding the iodine. I measure based on ‘darkness’ of the mixture, not on any specific drop count. For zoa’s I go black- so dark you can’t see through it. For chalices/LPSs, I’ll typically go a little lighter, to the point that you could maybe just see through it under lighting. If the LPS is looking like a goner, I’ll give it a stronger dose figuring «what’s the worst that can happen at this point…» Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn’t
So anyways- adding the iodine, then stir in with either a spoon (i use a pair of long tweezers) or a turkey baster will work- CAUTION iodine stains really well, and you don’t want it in your tank at these levels, so be careful around the tank and any precious clothing.
Pair of metal tweezers extending all the way to the bottom of the container. yes, THAT dark.
Dipping this rock of Purple Death’s that haven’t been happy since I moved them into way too little light and have had a rock ‘nem of some sort in the colony stinging them. In this case, using the iodine dip as a bacteria/fungal infection killer (also kills many parasites/small inverts that could be harming them) while it also acts as a ‘vitamin-boost’ for lack of a better term as I believe the corals ‘suck in’ the iodide (which is a key component of coral ‘flesh’ )
I now place the container in the tank (don’t recommend doing this, I prefer using a tub with a small heater and powerhead in it) to keep the water at temperature, and clamp it in place. Depending on the severity of the problem, this way I can leave the coral up to 24 hours (zoa’s only!) or even longer. If that long of a time, i will add a tiny powerhead to create some movement, or try and use a turkey baster every couple of hours to keep things stirred up. In general, LPS’s get dipped for 3-20 minutes depending on severity of the problem affecting them (more severe, longer dip typically, excepting chalice’s which get short time periods no matter what because they’re drama queens,) Zs&Ps get a minimum of 30 minutes, typically longer if there’s something good on TV (or at least good enough for my rotted brain,) and will get the 24hour+ treatment only in rare cases.
I didn’t dose quite as heavily as normal, plus the zoa’s being fairly damaged, along with a possible bacterial growth, have all resulted in the iodine dissipating (this is all just my belief, not scientific knowledge here folks!) Not a big deal, and i figure it’s a sign that it was working. If I’m going to dip anything further, i’ll either add more iodine and re-stir it up, or in this case where I didn’t know the specifics of what was wrong, I’ll go ahead and discard this water and start fresh (as I’m now going to be dipping some chalices, see earlier drama queen remarks)
After removing from the dip, i put the coral directly back into the tank it’s destined for- I’ve never rinsed it off in between or anything like that.
Hope that’s some help guys and gals!
How to Plasti Dip Your Car
Plasti Dip is a relatively new product that can be used to temporarily change the color of your car. It is basically a liquid form of the material used to vinyl-wrap cars, and it can be sprayed on like normal paint. It dries into a flexible material that protects the paint underneath. If done correctly, Plasti Dip is not only a good tool for decorating the outside of your car, but also helps maintain the finish on the body and trim. Plasti Dip can withstand freezing temperatures and extensive direct sunlight without warping or melting, so it is highly durable. At the same time, the Plasti Dip is easy to remove and peels off when needed.
Part 1 of 2: Prepare your car for Plasti Dip
- Coveralls or old, disposable clothing
- Lots of newspapers
- Painter’s tape in a variety of widths
- Painter’s mask
- Plasti Dip
- Rubber gloves
- Razor blade or box cutter
- Spray gun and trigger
Note: If you are buying Plasti Dip in spray-cans and plan to cover the whole car, then expect to use on using up to 20 cans. A small car may only take 14-16 cans, but running out partway through could be a real problem, so get extra. If you are using a spray gun you will need at least 2 one-gallon buckets of Plasti Dip.
Step 1: Decide on a location. The next thing to do is to decide on a location where you will apply the Plasti Dip. Because the car will need to sit for a while to let the Plasti Dip dry after each coat, and since there are a lot of fumes involved in applying the Plasti Dip, location is essential. Here are some things to look for in a spot:
Ample ventilation for the fumes
Consistent lighting to help apply the Plasti Dip more evenly
A spot indoors, as it keeps debris from getting stuck in the Plasti Dip while it’s drying.
A shady area, as direct sunlight will make the Plasti Dip dry inconsistently and unevenly.
Step 2: Prepare for the Plasti Dip. Now the car needs to be prepared to have the Plasti Dip applied to it.
A solid application will result in the Plasti Dip looking great and lasting a long time. Here are some steps to take that will ensure a good result:
Step 3: Wash the car. Wash the car with soap and water, scrubbing any impurities on the surface of the paint until they are gone completely. The car should be rinsed several times to ensure there is nothing on the surface of the paint when Plasti Dip is applied.
Step 4: Allow the car to dry. More important than any other step, make sure to is dry the car very thoroughly. This will ensure that there is no moisture on the surface of the paint. Use dry towels to wipe the surface dry a couple of times before application.
Step 5: Cover the windows. Use the painter’s tape and newspapers to cover up the windows and any other surfaces you do not wish to have applied with Plasti Dip.
Lights and emblems can be painted over, as once the Plasti Dip is dry, precise cuts around them will allow any extra to be peeled off.
Part 2 of 2: Applying the Plasti Dip
Step 1: Wear Proper Attire.Put on a painter’s mask, goggles, gloves, and coveralls.
- Tip: Keep some water on hand to quickly wash off anything that may spill on you throughout the process.
Step 2: Use your Plasti Dip. Cans are difficult but not impossible to use for the duration of time it takes to paint an entire car. It is best to use a professional spray gun for this task instead, since this will likely result in a more consistent finish.
- Note: Cans need to be shaken for at least a minute each to ensure the color is evenly mixed into the Plasti Dip, and gallon-size containers should be stirred for a minute or until the liquid is all one consistent tone.
Step 3: Prepare to Paint. Plan to paint 4-5 layers of Plasti Dip if you want a smooth consistent coat over the paint. A thicker coating also makes the material easier to peel off when you are done with it. This goes for everything you want to paint with Plasti Dip.
Step 4: Decide where to use Plasti Dip: Decide what parts are going to be Plasti Dipped and what parts are not. Lights and emblems can have the Plasti Dip peeled off easily, but it is better to tape off rubber trim and tires to prevent any material from getting on them.
Grilles and trim pieces can be removed and painted separately, or they can be left in place and sprayed. Just be sure to protect pieces behind the grille before spraying it.
Step 5: Remove wheels. To Plasti Dip wheels properly, they should be removed from the car, washed, and dried.
Step 6: Apply the paint. Keep the can or spray gun six inches away from the surface of the vehicle at all times when painting. Sweep back and forth and make sure not to pause on any spots.
- Note: The first coat is called the ‘bonding coat’ and needs to be a dusting of material over the original paint. It may seem counter-intuitive, but this allows the next few layers to adhere to both the car’s paint and the previous layers of Plasti Dip. Aim for 60% coverage.
Each coat needs to dry for 20-30 minutes before another can be added, so the fastest way to paint the entire car is to work in sections, switching between sections to allow the freshly-painted ones to dry while the dry ones receive another coat.
Coat everything smoothly and patiently, focusing on consistency above all else. Do not rush, because mistakes are be hard or impossible to correct.
Once all of the coats are applied, it is time to remove all tape and paper. At any point where the Plasti Dip is touching tape, cut along the tape with a razor blade to ensure a good edge when the tape is removed. Cut around emblems and lights carefully with a razor and peel off the excess Plasti Dip.
If anywhere looks too thin, add another coat within 30 minutes and proceed normally.
Step 7: Allow the Car to Sit. It is essential that the car dry for at least four hours to allow the Plasti Dip to cure completely.
Do not let any moisture or debris come into contact with the surface of the car during this time. If this step is rushed, then it is likely that the finish will not be satisfactory.
Step 8: Once the Plasti Dip is dry. After the Plasti Dip is dry, you now have the factory paint protected by a tough, flexible material that looks professionally applied and can be removed easily. Simply locate an edge of the Plasti Dip and pull it up. Once a little bit comes off, the entire patch can be peeled off.
- Note: Once you have the process down, you can then change the color of your car whenever you like.
Plasti Dip is thus both an easy way to change the color of your car and an efficient way to protect the factory paint, ensuring that it has maximum life. This is something that can be done without too much trouble to the owner and is quick and painless to remove when you are ready. Whether you want to decorate your car with something new or preserve its finish, Plasti Dip is a viable option available to the average consumer.
How to Do Dips the Right Way
Dips are a bodyweight exercise that develops the triceps and other upper-body muscles. The exercise begins when you hold on to parallel bars with your arms straight. You then bend your elbows until your upper arms are parallel to the ground before driving up to the starting position.
Here’s everything you need to know to correctly perform Dips, avoid common mistakes and build bigger and stronger triceps.
How To Do Dips
To perform Dips, you need parallel bars, a dip stand or a dip machine. These devices can be standalone units, combined with a pull-up bar or attached to a rack, as shown in our demo below.
Here’s how to do the exercise.
Step 1: Grasp the parallel bars and hop up so your arms are straight. Lean forward at about a 45-degree angle, bend at the waist so your legs are vertical and pull your toes up toward your shins. Pull your shoulders down and back. Maintain this body position throughout the exercise.
Step 2: Slowly bend your elbows to lower your body into the Dip until your upper arms are about parallel to the ground. Keep your elbows tight to your body.
Step 3: Straighten your arms to drive your body up to the starting position.
Dip Form Mistakes
According to Dr. Joel Seedman, owner of Advanced Human Performance, Dips are one of the most commonly butchered exercise in the weight room. He believes this is because there’s far less info on proper form compared to the Squat, Bench Press, Deadlift and most other exercises.
Dips are commonly viewed as an exercise that you can’t screw up, which is far from the truth. Dips done with poor form are not only less effective, but are highly likely to cause shoulder pain.
Here are the common mistakes that you need to avoid.
Mistake 1: Poor upper-body position
Form Mistake: Rounded back and shoulders
This is the number one mistake people make when performing Dips. Most people lean too far forward, round their back and have forward rounded shoulders. On the flip side, others try to maintain a close-to-vertical torso to more directly target their triceps.
Either form error puts your shoulders in a vulnerable position. There’s a good chance that if you experience shoulder pain during Dips, one of these technique mistakes is the culprit.
The fix requires you to:
- Maintain a 45-degree angle with your upper body
- Pull your shoulders down and back
- Keep your core tight
Mistake 2: Flaring your elbows
Form Mistake: Flared Elbows
Another surefire way to screw up your shoulders is to flare your elbows out to your sides as your lower into a Dip. Some bodybuilders actually recommend flaring your elbows to hit the chest, but the stress placed on your shoulders isn’t worth it.
Similar to Push-Ups or the Bench Press, your elbows should be at no more than a 45-degree angle with your body. This puts your shoulders in a strong and stable position. For Dips, they can even be closer to your torso than when you do a Neutral-Grip Dumbbell Press or Close-Grip Bench Press.
Mistake 3: Messing up your range of motion
Form Mistake: Lowering too far
Lowering yourself too far puts your shoulders in a dangerous position. Failure to lower enough and you’re only doing a partial rep that won’t fully challenge your muscles.
The key is to find the happy medium between the two. At the bottom of the dip, your upper arms should be parallel to the ground and your elbows should be bent at approximately 90 degrees.
Mistake 4: Weak grip and bent wrists
Form Mistake: Bent wrists
There’s a tendency for the wrists to bend severely, often causing wrist pain. A poor grip limits muscle activation throughout the rest of the body, impairing stability and reducing the benefit of the exercise.
Throughout an entire set of Dips, try to crush the handles with your hands and maintain strong wrists. If you have trouble with this, spend extra time in your workouts improving your grip strength.
After reading about the mistakes, you can probably conclude that Dips have a tendency to cause shoulder problems, which is especially true if they are done incorrectly. If you have a shoulder injury or you’re an athlete who relies heavily on his or her shoulders, such as a baseball player or volleyball player, it’s best to avoid this exercise altogether.
The Benefits of Dips
Dips are considered an upper-body pressing exercise that primarily build bigger and stronger triceps, but they also hit the chest, shoulders and even the back.
In fact, Dips are one of the best exercises for developing overall upper-body strength and size. Many believe they’re as essential to developing complete upper-body strength as the Bench Press, Pull-Ups and Rows—that is if you can do them with good form and have healthy shoulders.
The triceps and general upper-body strength added by doing Dips will also improve your Bench Press strength. Stronger triceps help you drive through the sticking point (middle portion of the rep) of the press and have a stronger lockout.
Dips Muscles Worked
Dips are an upper-body exercise that focuses on the triceps. However, you can expect them to target your pecs, anterior deltoids and muscles in your back. Even your biceps get a workout because they have to help control the descent.
For the sake of simplicity, we will focus on the triceps, pecs and anterior deltoids.
Dip Alternatives and Variations
Here are three Dip variations that will help you decrease or increase the difficulty of the exercise.
Attach a band to the dip machine and place it under your feet. This provides assistance and makes it easier to perform the exercise if you lack the strength to perform it with proper form.
If you have mastered bodyweight Dips, it’s time to load up and challenge yourself. A weight vest is the ideal option, but you can also use a weight belt or simply hold a dumbbell between your feet.
Ring Dips are the most challenging variation, because of the added instability.
Avoid: Bench Dips
Bench Dips involve placing your hands on a bench behind you and bending your elbows to work your triceps. This is a common variation because it’s easier to perform and you only need a bench to do them. Problem is, this setup puts your shoulders in an extremely vulnerable position.
«Bench Dips cause maximal internal rotation and glenohumeral extension, which is a recipe for disaster,» says Tony Gentilcore, strength coach and owner of Core (Boston). «This is particularly problematic for athletes who have a history of shoulder problems or who play an overhead sport such as tennis or baseball.»
Here are a few options to help you add Dips to your workouts.
Dip Upper-Body Superset
1a) Dips — 4×8
1b) Dumbbell Rows — 4×8 each arm
Dip Arm Workout
1a) Dips — 3×12
1b) Hammer Curls — 3×12
Upper-Body Workout With Dips
1) Bench Press — 5×3
2) Barbell Rows — 5×5
3) Dips — 4×10
4) Pull-Ups — 4×8-10
5) Skull Crushers — 3×12
6) Hammer Curls — 3×15
How to Dip Dye Hair
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